Named after Mexican novel Pedro Páramo about a ghost town, this jam-packed, sprawling restaurant–bar feels more like a house party. Tacos like the huasca wild boar in a beer reduction, or the seared tuna in honey set a high bar. There's also shrimp, meatballs, longaniza (sausage) and vegetarian hibiscus flowers or stuffed chilies, all of which can be taken as mains.
Reservations recommended any night, otherwise wait an hour in the bar with a drink from the long menu – the refreshing pepino (cucumber) mezcal cocktail and their gins and tonic are excellent.