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Getty Images/Robert Harding World Imagery

Eastern Madagascar

Eastern Madagascar is travel the way it used to be. There is a wildness here of primordial allure, from the misty mountains of Masoala, down the huge coastline with its pounding sea and overhanging palms, to the lush waterways of the Pangalanes Lakes. This part of the country is largely cut off from the rest, and from itself, by a degraded transport network, including some roads out of an engineer’s nightmare. Travelling here requires a combination of plane, car, 4WD, motorbike, scooter, pirogue (dugout canoe), ferry, cargo boat, taxi-brousse (bush taxi) and motorboat. This inaccessibility results in isolated communities and, for the traveller, a constant sense of coming upon undiscovered locales, including entire national parks. There’s no doubt it can be frustrating at times, but Eastern Madagascar produces more travellers' tales than anywhere else. If you value that, come here first.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Madagascar.

  • National Park

    Parc National Masoala-Nosy Mangabe

    This 2100-sq-km national park contains one of the best primary rainforests in the country. It is famous for its vegetation, which includes rare hardwoods, bamboos, and dozens of species of fern, palm and orchid. Ten lemur species are found here, along with several tenrec and mongoose species, 14 bat species, 60 reptile species and about 85 bird species. It also encompasses three protected marine areas. The reserve is only accessible by boat, or on foot if you are hiking.

  • National Park

    Parc National Analamazaotra

    This is the most popular park within Parc National Andasibe Mantadia. The real draw of this reserve is the rare indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur, whose unforgettable wail can be heard emanating from the misty forest throughout the day, most commonly in the early morning. There are about 60 resident family groups of two to five indris each.

  • National Park

    Nosy Mangabe

    Part of Parc National Masoala-Nosy Mangabe, this thickly forested and mountainous tropical island is one of the crown jewels of the Antongil Bay. With huge soaring canarium trees arising from flying buttress roots, a rusty shipwreck piercing one side, waterfalls, a yellow sickle-shaped beach, foreign inscriptions and the omnipresent sound of the jungle, it is quite possibly the closest thing to a Robinson Crusoe experience you'll get. It rains a lot, though, so be prepared.

  • National Park

    Parc National Mantadia

    Part of the Parc National Andasibe Mantadia, this park is about 17km north of Andasibe. Created primarily to protect the indri, Mantadia also hosts the black-and-white ruffed lemur. A quiet, beautiful area with numerous waterfalls and wonderful landscapes, it is undeveloped and seldom visited compared to its popular neighbour to the south, so if you’re here in high season it’s well worth the detour to escape the crowds.

  • Park

    Mahay Mitia Ala

    The Mahay Mitia Ala (VOIMMA) park, opened in 2011, is managed by a local association to promote biodiversity, conservation and local development. The species found here are the same as in nearby parks, including the indri and the elusive aye-aye. The main benefit of this park is accessibility. The trails are clear and wide, allowing better views of wildlife, and there are no steep hills such as exist elsewhere. The park is generally quieter than similar local parks.

  • Nature Reserve

    Réserve de Maromizaha

    If you want real unadulterated wilderness then the Réserve de Maromizaha is what you're looking for. This 100-sq-km ecotourism reserve, about 8km southeast of the Parc National Mantadia is more the preserve of scientists and researchers than tourists and it offers a genuine wilderness experience. The area is home to 14 somewhat elusive and only partially habituated lemur species, including diademed sifakas and black-and-white ruffed lemurs, both of which are also found at Parc National Mantadia.

  • Park

    Parc Mitsinjo

    Located on the main road opposite the MNP office, Mitsinjo is a private reserve run by Association Mitsinjo, set up by guides to promote conservation and community tourism. It’s a great idea to add this to your itinerary before or after visiting Parc National Mantadia.

  • Cemetery

    Cimetière des Pirates

    This is a fascinating spot from which to contemplate the history of the island. The cemetery overlooks the Baie de Forbans just south of Ambodifotatra, the perfect pirate hang-out. Missionaries, and colonial and marine officers are also buried here, but you can clearly see the skull and crossbones on the grave of one English pirate. The crumbling piers used for ship repairs are visible from here, as is the small island of Île aux Forbans, where many pirates lived.

  • Nature Reserve

    Vohimana Forest

    Established as a private reserve in 2001, this crucial 1.6-sq-km corridor links the Andasibe area parks with the forests of the south. At present facilities include around 20km of walking trails, from two hours to three days in length, taking in lemurs, birds and the pointy-nosed Columma gallus chameleon (not found elsewhere). There are no set guiding fees but expect to pay Ar60,000 for a half-day circuit.