Nowhere is the tightly woven religious cloth that is India more apparent than in North Paravur, 35km north of Kochi. Here, one of the oldest synagogues in Kerala, at Chennamangalam, 8km from Paravur, has been fastidiously renovated. Inside you can see door and ceiling wood-reliefs in dazzling colours, while just outside lies one of the oldest tombstones in India – inscribed with the Hebrew date corresponding to 1269. The Jesuits first arrived in Chennamangalam in 1577 and there’s a Jesuit church and the ruins of a Jesuit college nearby. Nearby are a Hindu temple on a hill overlooking the Periyar River, a 16th-century mosque, and Muslim and Jewish burial grounds.