Becalmed at the end of a long, bumpy road, the fishing village of Puerto Esperanza (Port of Hope), 6km north of San Cayetano and 25km north of Viñales, isn't sleepy so much as veritably slumbering. The clocks haven't worked here since…oh…1951. According to town lore, the giant mango trees lining the entry road were planted by slaves in the 1800s. A long pier pointing out into the bay, a favored perch for catatonic fishers, is tempting for a jump into the ocean.
Puerto Esperanza has a loyal following of ultra-independent travelers who are keen to see a side of Cuba where few foreigners care to tread. Rich in money it isn't. Rich in wild off-the-cuff experiences it is. Come here to spin with local cyclists through craggy hills and end up on an unkempt beach fishing for your dinner.