Tiānshuǐ’s splendid Buddhist caves at nearby Màijī Shān entice a consistent flow of visitors to this otherwise bland provincial town. Or is that two towns? Modern Tiānshuǐ is actually two very separate districts 15km apart: there is the railhead sprawl, known as Màijī Qū (麦积区; formerly Běidào), and the central commercial area to the west, known as Qínzhōu Qū (秦州区) and where you’ll arrive if coming in by bus. The two...
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