Getting there & away
More and more tourists are flying to Poland on budget airlines and proceeding overland to Lviv from there.
There are three bus stations. The most useful (but least convenient) is the Main Bus Station (Holovny Avtovokzal; 632 473; vul Stryska), 8km south of the centre. It’s reached by marshrutky 71 and 180 from pr Svobody or trolleybus 5 from pl Petrushevycha.
From the Main Bus Station, buses serve all major southern, eastern and central cities, including Kyiv (90uah, nine hours, four daily), Kamyanets-Podilsky (60uah, eight hours, twice daily) and Odesa (110uah, 15 hours, once daily). Western Ukraine destinations include Ivano-Frankivsk (20uah, three hours, hourly until 5.20pm), Chernivtsi (42uah, 7½ hours, at least twice daily), Kolomyya (30uah, 4½ hours, 12 daily), Uzhhorod (37uah, six hours, four daily), Lutsk (24uah, three hours, about every hour), Rivne (26uah, 3¼ hours, 12 daily), Ternopil (25uah, three hours, every 30 minutes) and Kremenets (24uah, 3¼ hours, once daily) via Olesko and Pochayiv.
Many southbound buses depart from Bus Station No 8 (238 8308) in front of the Central Train Station. Destinations served include Ivano-Frankivsk (20uah, 3½ hours, seven daily), Uzhhorod (37uah, 6½ hours, two daily), Odesa (daily), Kyiv (twice daily). Three daily buses to Warsaw also leave from here.
Lviv’s harder to reach, suburban, Bus Station No 2 is about 3km north of the centre near the end of tram line 6. From the tram’s final stop, head right (east) to the bus station. Some services to Zhovkva depart from here.
Lviv’s refurbished train station (005, 226 2068) is 2km west of the centre, connected to town by trams 1 and 9.
The quickest way to Kyiv is on an express day train (70uah, 6½ hours, one or two daily except Tuesday). There are also at least four regular trains per day, mostly overnight (100uah, nine to 11 hours). Most services to Kyiv pass through Ternopil (25uah, 2½ hours) and Vinnytsya (48uah, 6½ hours). Slow elektrychky service Ternopil (7uah, four hours, three daily), Lutsk (10uah, six hours, once daily) and Rivne (10uah, six hours, two daily).
Heading south, there are trains to Ivano-Frankivsk (from 24uah, three hours, twice daily), Kolomyya (from 12uah, five hours, twice daily), Uzhhorod (56uah, seven hours, at least three daily), Chop (60uah, six hours, once daily), Rakhiv (36uah, 8½ hours, once daily, arriving at midnight) and Chernivtsi (50uah, 5½ to 11 hours, three daily).
There are daily trains to all major cities in central, southern and eastern Ukraine, including Odesa (96uah, 12 hours, twice daily), Simferopol (130uah, one day, daily) and Kharkiv (109uah, 20 hours, three daily). To get to Kamyanets-Podilsky take a train to Khmelnytsky (four hours) and transfer to one of the frequent marshrutky (1½ hours).
The most painless way to acquire a train ticket is to use the centrally located train ticket office (226 5276; vul Hnatyuka 20; 8am-2pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun).
Lviv’s small, basic airport (229 8112; www.avia.lviv.ua, in Ukrainian) is about 9km west of the centre. A taxi is the easiest way in from the airport and should cost 25uah to 35uah. Otherwise, take trolleybus 9 to the university or marshrutka 95 to the centre.
There are daily flights to and from Vienna on Austrian Airlines (297 6092; Lviv Airport) and to and from Warsaw on LOT (297 5057; vul Sichovykh Striltsiv 5). Insist that your transfer in Vienna be longer than 30 minutes if you want to be absolutely sure your baggage makes it.