Full of heart, soul and character, Diyar is finally tapping into its fantastic potential as a destination for travellers. While it's proud of remaining the symbol of Kurdish identity and tenacity, thanks to increasing promotion and restoration programs Turkish and foreign tourists are streaming back. Behind the grim basalt walls, the old city's twisting alleyways are crammed full of historical buildings and Arab-style mosques.
Speak to Turks from western Turkey and they will recoil in fear if you mention Diyarbakır because, since the 1980s, this animated city has been the centre of the Kurdish resistance movement, and violent street demonstrations still occur from time to time. And yes, nowhere else in eastern Turkey will you hear people priding themselves so much on being Kurdish.
Banned until a few years ago, the Nevruz festival takes place on 21 March and is a great occasion to immerse yourself in Kurdish culture.
Apart from a few slightly annoying street kids, Diyarbakır is as safe as any other city in the region.