Places in Togo
Togo's capital may be a shadow of its former self, when it was dubbed 'the pearl of West Africa', but it retains a charm and nonchalance that is unique among West African capitals. You'll probably appreciate its human scale and unexpected treats and gems: from tasty maquis to colourful markets and palm-fringed boulevards.
As you head north, Islam takes over from Christianity as the dominant religion. Most towns are short on sights, but for those with their own vehicle, or the determination to have a showdown with local bush taxis, fabulous highlights await in the castellated shapes of the Tamberma compounds in Koutammakou.