Nan Province

Introducing Nan Province

Formerly a government-designated ‘remote province’, Nan before the early 1980s was so choked with bandits and People’s Liberation Army of Thailand (PLAT) insurgents that travellers were discouraged from visiting.

With the successes of the Thai army and a more stable political machine in Bangkok during the last two decades, Nan has opened up considerably. The roads that link the provincial capital with the nearby provinces of Chiang Rai, Phrae and Utaradit pass through exquisite scenery of rich river valleys and rice fields. Like Loei in the northeast, this is a province to be explored for its natural beauty and its likeable people.

Nan remains a largely rural province with not a factory or condo in sight. Most of the inhabitants are agriculturally employed, growing sticky rice, beans, corn, tobacco and vegetables in the fertile river plains. Nan is also famous for two fruits: fai jiin (a Chinese version of Thailand’s indigenous máfai) and sôm sǐi thawng (golden-skinned oranges). The latter are Nan’s most famous export, commanding high prices in Bangkok and Malaysia. Apparently, the cooler winter weather in Nan turns the skin orange (lowland Thai oranges are mostly green) and imparts a unique, sweet, tart flavour. Amphoe Thung Chang supposedly grows the best sôm sǐi thawng in the province. Nan is also famous for its phrík yài hâeng (long, hot chillies) similar to those grown in China’s Sichuan Province. During the hot season, you’ll see heaps of these chillies drying by the roadside.