Tanzania Transport

Getting around

Boat

Ferries operate on Lake Victoria, Lake Tanganyika and Lake Nyasa (Malawi), and between Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Pemba. There’s a US$5 port tax per trip on all routes. The MV Safari sails weekly between Dar es Salaam and Mtwara.

Lake nyasa

In theory, the MV Songea departs Itungi Port about 1pm on Thursday and makes its way down the coast via Lupingu, Manda, Mango and Liuli (but not via Matema) to Mbamba Bay (TSh14, 000/8000 in 1st/economy class, 18 to 24 hours). It then continues across to Nkhata Bay in Malawi, before turning around and doing the return trip. This schedule is highly unreliable and frequently interrupted.

Lake tanganyika

For the MV Liemba schedule between Kigoma and Mpulungu (Zambia), see left. The regular passenger-ferry service between Kigoma and Bujumbura is suspended; inquire at the port in Kigoma for an update.

Lake victoria

The MV Victoria departs Mwanza for Bukoba at 10pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday (TSh16, 500/14, 500/11, 300/10, 600 plus port tax in 1st class/2nd-class sleeping/2nd-class sitting/3rd class, nine hours). Food is available on board.

Hitching

Hitching in Tanzania is generally slow going. It’s prohibited inside national parks, and is usually fruitless around them. That said, in remote areas, hitching a lift with truck drivers may be your only transport option, for which you’ll need to pay.

Bus & tram

Bus

Major long-distance routes have a choice of express and ordinary buses. Express buses make fewer stops, are less crowded than ordinary buses and depart on schedule. Some have air-con and toilets, and the nicest ones are called ‘luxury’ buses. On secondary routes, the only option is ordinary buses, which are often packed to overflowing, make many stops and run to a less rigorous schedule.

For popular routes, book your seat in advance, although you can sometimes get a place by arriving at the bus station an hour prior to departure. Scandinavian and Royal Coach fill up quickly on all routes, and should be booked at least one day in advance. Each bus line has its own booking office, usually at or near the bus station.

Prices are basically fixed, although overcharging isn’t unheard of. Most bus stations are chaotic, and at the ones in Arusha and other tourist areas you’ll be incessantly hounded by touts. Buy your tickets at the office, and not from the touts, and don’t believe anyone who tries to tell you there’s a luggage fee.

Major bus companies and a sampling of their destinations:

Dar Express Arusha, Dar es Salaam.

Royal Coach Arusha, Dar es Salaam.

Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com) Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Dodoma, Iringa, Kampala (Uganda), Mbeya, Mombasa and Nairobi (Kenya).

Other lines, none distinguished, include Takrim/Tawfiq (Arusha, Kampala, Mwanza, Nairobi), Sumry (Mbeya) and Jaguar (Bukoba, Kampala). You can book tickets online for Scandinavian Express routes, but need to collect (and pay for) your ticket at least three days prior to the journey date.

Minibus & shared taxi

For shorter trips away from the main routes, the choice is often between 30-seater buses (‘Coasters’ or thelathini) and daladalas. Both options come complete with chickens on the roof, bags of produce wedged under the seats, and no leg room. Shared taxis are relatively rare, except in northern Tanzania near Arusha. Like ordinary buses, minibuses and shared taxis leave when full; they’re probably the least safe of the various transport options.

Car & motorcycle

Unless you have your own vehicle and are familiar with driving in East Africa, it’s relatively unusual for travellers to tour mainland Tanzania by car. More common is to focus on one part of the country, and then arrange local transport through a tour or safari operator. On Zanzibar it’s easy and economical to hire a car or motorcycle for touring.

Driving licence

On the mainland, you’ll need your home driving licence or (preferably) an international driving licence. On Zanzibar, you’ll need an international driving licence, or a licence from Zanzibar, Kenya, Uganda or South Africa.

Hire

Dar es Salaam has a modest array of car-hire agencies. Daily rates for 2WD start about at US$40 excluding fuel, plus US$20 to US$30 for insurance and tax. Prices for 4WD range from US$70 to US$150 per day plus insurance (US$30 to US$40 per day), fuel and driver (US$15 to US$35 per day). There’s also a 20% VAT.

For anything outside the city, most companies require 4WD. Also, most don’t permit self-drive outside of Dar es Salaam, and none presently offer unlimited kilometres. Per kilometre charges average US$0.50 to US$1. Clarify what the company’s policy is in the event of a breakdown.

Avis (022-211 5381; Skylink Travel & Tours, Ohio St, Dar es Salaam; avis@skylinktanzania.com) Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, with a branch in Arusha.

Evergreen Car Rentals (022-218 2107, 022-218 5419; evergreen@raha.com; cnr Nkrumah St & Nyerere Rd, Dar es Salaam)

Hertz (022-212 2130, 022-212 2363; hertz@cats-net.com; Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio St, Dar es Salaam)

Elsewhere in Tanzania, you can hire 4WD vehicles in Arusha, Mwanza and Zanzibar Town and other centres through travel agencies, tour operators and hotels. Except on Zanzibar, most come with driver. Rates average US$70 to US$120 per day plus fuel, and less on Zanzibar (where it’s also easy to hire motorcycles and minibikes, and arrange car hire privately). Clarify before setting out who bears responsibility for repairs.

Road conditions & hazards

About 20% of Tanzania’s road network is paved, including the roads from Dar es Salaam to Arusha via Chalinze, and from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya via Morogoro and Iringa. The road from Dar es Salaam to Mtwara is being paved. Secondary roads range from good to nearly impassable, depending on the season and on when they were last maintained. For most trips outside major towns, you’ll need 4WD.

Hazards include vehicles overtaking on blind curves, pedestrians and animals on the road, and children running onto the road.

Road rules

In theory, driving is on the left, and traffic already in roundabouts has the right of way. Unless otherwise posted, the speed limit is 80km/h; on major routes, police have radar. Tanzania has a seatbelt law for drivers and front-seat passengers. The official traffic-fine penalty is TSh20, 000.

Motorcycles aren’t permitted in national parks, except for the section of the Dar es Salaam to Mbeya highway passing through Mikumi National Park.

Train

Tanzania has two rail lines: Tazara (022-286 0340/4, 022-286 5339; www.tazara.co.tz; cnr Nyerere & Nelson Mandela Rds, Dar es Salaam) links Dar es Salaam with Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia via Mbeya and Tunduma; the Tanzanian Railway Corporation’s Central Line (022-211 7833; www.trctz.com; cnr Railway St & Sokoine Dr, Dar es Salaam) links Dar es Salaam with Kigoma and Mwanza via Morogoro, Dodoma and Tabora. A branch of the Central Line links Tabora with Mpanda; there’s also passenger service on the Dodoma–Singida spur.

Tazara is more comfortable and efficient, but on both lines, breakdowns and long delays – up to 12 hours or more – are common.

Classes

There are three classes: 1st class (two- or four-bed compartments), 2nd-class sleeping (six-bed compartments) and economy class (benches, usually very crowded). Some trains also have a ‘2nd-class sitting section’, with one seat per person. Men and women can only travel together in the sleeping sections by booking the entire compartment.

Reservations

Tickets for 1st and 2nd class should be reserved at least several days in advance, although occasionally you’ll be able to get a seat on the day of travel. Economy-class tickets can be bought on the spot.

Schedules & costs

Both lines are undergoing renovations and management changes, so expect schedule and price changes.

Central line

Central Line trains depart Dar es Salaam three times weekly in the evening for both Kigoma and Mwanza (splitting at Tabora). In theory, both journeys take about 40 hours, though it’s often much longer. Trains from both Mwanza and Kigoma to Dar es Salaam also depart in the evenings.

Trains between Tabora and Mpanda (about 14 hours) run three times weekly, departing Tabora in the evening and Mpanda around midday.

Tazara

Tazara runs three trains weekly: two ‘express’ trains between Dar es Salaam and Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia via Mbeya, and an ‘ordinary’ train between Dar es Salaam and Mbeya. Ordinary trains take about 24 hours between Dar and Mbeya, and cost TSh24, 500/18, 400/12, 200 in 1st/2nd/economy class).

Tours

For some reputable safari operators in the northern safari circuit, see the Arusha section. Tour operators on Zanzibar can organise competitively priced fly/drive safaris to both the northern and southern safari circuits.

Local transport

Daladala

Local routes are serviced by daladalas and, in rural areas, pick-up trucks or old LandRovers. Prices are from TSh100 for local town runs. The vehicles make many stops and are invariably crowded. Accidents are frequent, particularly in minibuses. Destinations are either posted in the front window, or called out by the driver’s assistant, who collects fares.

Taxi

Taxis can be hired in all major towns. None have meters; the base rate for town trips is TSh1500.

Air

The national airline, Air Tanzania (in Dar es Salaam 022-211 8411, 022-284 4293; www.airtanzania.com) has reliable flights connecting Dar es Salaam with Mwanza, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro and Mtwara. Other airlines flying domestically include the following (all also do charters).

Air Excel (027-254 8429, 027-250 1597; reservations@airexcelonline.com) Arusha, Serengeti, Lake Manyara, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar.

Coastal Aviation (022-284 3293, 022-284 2877, 022-211 7959; www.coastal.cc) Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Lake Manyara, Mafia, Mwanza, Pemba, Ruaha National Park, Selous Game Reserve, Serengeti National Park, Tanga, Tarangire National Park, Zanzibar.

Precision Air (022-212 1718, 022-213 0800, 027-250 2818; www.precisionairtz.com) Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Kigoma, Mwanza, Zanzibar.

Regional Air Services (027-250 4477, 027-250 2541; www.airkenya.com/docs/regair3.htm) Arusha, Kilimanjaro, Lake Manyara, Serengeti National Park.

ZanAir (024-223 3670/8; www.zanair.com) Arusha, Dar es Salaam, Lake Manyara, Pemba, Selous Game Reserve, Serengeti National Park, Tarangire National Park, Zanzibar.