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Getting there & away

Buy airline tickets at the Aviakassa(408 066; Hotel Volgograd, ul Mira 12; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) or at the Aeroflot office (300 515; alleya Geroyev 6; 9am-6pm) for flights to/from Moscow (R4300, seven daily). Flights go once or twice a week to/from Baku and Yerevan.

The river station, just south of the foot of alleya Geroyev, was once one of the grandest on the river. Now, however, it shares the fate of many other public buildings and has much of its space given over to businesses peddling a variety of wares. Go around to the back on the ground level for ticket sales.

The Central Bus Station is a 10-minute walk across the tracks from the train station. Train services run daily to/from Moscow's Paveletsky vokzal (R1670, 20 hours), as well as to Astrakhan (nine hours), Volgograd (R620, eight hours) and Rostov- on-Don (R520, nine hours). A train to Ulyanovsk (R750, 20 hours) departs every second day.