Iaşi

Introducing Iaşi

Iaşi (pronounced ‘yash’) has an energy and depth of character that would be instantly giddying if one had the power to see through concrete. Those without this endowment will need a few days to pinpoint the numerous joys of Romania’s second-largest city. Iaşi’s past as Moldavia’s capital (since 1565) has resulted in a city dotted with fabulous buildings, important monasteries, parks and unpretentious cultural treasures. As one of Romania’s largest university towns, its population seemingly doubles during the academic year, when students from around the country flood the streets with a liveliness that defies their position in one of Romania’s poorest provinces. The youthful, cosmopolitan atmosphere, fuelled partly by thousands of foreign students, is quickly extinguishing the lingering socialist ways and blasé attitude of the town’s service industry. Moreover, it’s the perfect staging area for travellers heading into Moldova, 20km away.

Founded in the second half of the 14th century, Iaşi has a great cultural tradition due to the stream of scholars that began clustering here in the early 17th century. Prominent names from the city’s prolific literary past such as Vasile Pogor, Ion Creangă and the riotously popular poet Mihai Eminescu adorn dozens of streets, busts, memorial houses, museums and an old linden tree. The first Romanian language newspaper was published here in 1829 and the country’s first university was founded in 1860.

Iaşi’s map-dot ballooned after being named the capital of modern-day Romania, when Moldavian ruler Alexandru Ioan Cuza united Wallachia with Moldavia in 1859 and christened the new university after himself. Bucharest usurped Iaşi in 1862, but it was relinquished briefly when the government, following the lead of King Ferdinand and Queen Marie, sought refuge here during WWI. During this period, Iaşi’s notorious history of anti-Semitism took root with the birth of the League of National Christian Defence – the predecessor of the despicably fascist Iron Guard.

Modern Iaşi is among Romania’s most vibrant cities, teeming with beautiful people, restaurants, bars and hot night spots. Each year the university honours its librarian-turned-celebrated-poet at the National Mihai Eminescu Symposium. For something less cerebral, try to catch Iaşi Days during the second week in October. Originally a week-long religious event devoted to Saint Parascheva, it has mushroomed into a street party, fuelled by a river of must .

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009