Getting there & away
Several cargo boats take passengers up the Río Paraguay. Two have regular departures from Asunción to Concepción (US$9, 30 hours). Check the changing schedules. At the time of research the Cacique departed on Wednesdays at 7am and the Aguape every 15 days (check the schedule at Agencia Marítima, 031-42435). The Aquidaban heads on from Concepción to Vallemi (Tuesday around 11am, arriving Wednesday; US$12) and the Cacique heads to Vallemi on Thursday mornings (although this can depend on when it arrives from Asunción), arriving in Vallemi on Friday afternoon. The Aquidaban heads to Bahía Negra on Saturdays (US$33, 2½ days). You can pay a bit more for a double-occupancy camarote (cabin) or hang in your hammock below deck with the other passengers and their unbelievable assortment of cargo – ranging from chickens to motorbikes. La Filomena is a more upmarket option with two small camarotes. Speak to the owner, Lilian Paiva (031-42000). It’s possible for adventurous travelers to float as far as Brazil.
Aeropuerto Internacional Silvio Pettirossi (645600) is in the suburb of Luque, 20km east of Asunción. It’s easily reached by buses displaying ‘Aeropuerto’ signs heading out Av Aviadores del Chaco.
The only scheduled domestic flights within Paraguay are between Asunción and Ciudad del Este (US$40 one way, 50 minutes, daily). Tickets should be reserved and purchased at least one day before.
Direct international flights to and from Asunción and the following cities in neighboring countries are regularly available. Prices are for one-way fares and are subject to change.
Buenos Aires, Argentina US$109 to US$289, four daily.
Santa Cruz, Bolivia US$334, one daily.
Santiago, Chile US$269, one per day Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
São Paolo, Brasil US$195 to US$304, three daily.