There is a new road from Al-Hoceima to Nador (130km) that is a delight to travel, even when squashed into a grand taxi. It passes through red cliffs, verdant gorges and, midway, an enormous sculpture of deeply eroded hills. A new resort, Atalayoun Golf, was being constructed at the time of research.
Within 60km of Nador there are several ramshackle, clifftop cafes that are perfect for a mint tea as you gaze out over the sea. Don’t look too closely at the deserted beaches, though, as they’re knee-deep in litter.
Unfortunately Nador itself offers little when you arrive, regardless of its size. Apart from Marchika, its pretty lagoon, there are no sights or attractions in this endless sprawl of concrete blocks. The city serves more as a transport link, with a major airport, active ferry port and sleek new train station with a service to Fez. Like the rest of the coast, this situation is changing, with the requisite corniche and palm-lined boulevards now complete. The accompanying development of hotels, restaurants and marina has stalled, as it has everywhere on the coast. It’s best not to linger in Nador.