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Introducing Ulcinj

If you want a feel of Albania without actually crossing the border, buzzy Ulcinj’s the place to go. The population is 61% Albanian (68% Muslim) and in summertime it swells with Kosovar holidaymakers for the simple reason that it’s a hell of a lot nicer than any of the Albanian seaside towns. The elegant minarets of numerous mosques give Ulcinj (Ulqin in Albanian) a distinctly Eastern feel, as does the lively music echoing out of the kebab stands around Mala Plaža (Small Beach).