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Introducing Cuernavaca

There’s always been a formidable glamour surrounding Cuernavaca (kwehr-nah-vah-kah), the high-society capital of Morelos state. With its vast, gated haciendas and sprawling estates, it has in the past attracted everyone from the Shah of Iran to Charlie Mingus to its year-round warmth, clean air and attractive architecture.

Today this tradition continues, even though urban sprawl has put a decisive end to the clean air, and you’re more likely to see vacationing North Americans and college students studying Spanish on month-long courses than meet international royalty and great artists in the street.