Isthmus of Tehuantepec

Introducing Isthmus of Tehuantepec

The southern half of the 200km-wide Isth­mus of Tehuantepec (teh-wahn-teh-pek), Mexico’s narrow waist, forms the eastern end of Oaxaca state. This is hot, flat country and, if you have come down from Oaxaca city, it’s a stark reminder that you are well inside the tropics. Indigenous Zapotec culture is strong here, with its own regional twists. In 1496 the isthmus Zapotecs repulsed the Aztecs from the fortress of Guiengola, near Tehuantepec, and the isthmus never became part of the Aztec empire. An independent spirit continues to pervade the region to this day.

If you stay around, you’ll encounter a lively, friendly populace, whose open and confident women take leading roles in business and government. Isthmus people let loose their love of music, dancing and partying in numerous annual velas (fiestas) lasting several days. If you’re here for one of these occasions, you will see women displaying wonderfully worked, highly colorful huipiles, gold and silver jewelry, skirts embroidered with fantastic silk flowers, and odd headgear. Many isthmus fiestas feature the tirada de frutas, in which women climb on roofs and throw fruit on the men below!

A new toll road, Hwy 185D, bypasses the three main isthmus towns – Salina Cruz, Tehuantepec and Juchitán – and intersects Hwy 190 just west of Tehuantepec. Isthmus culture is stronger in Tehuantepec and Juchitán than in Salina Cruz, which is dominated by its oil refinery. All three towns can be pretty uncomfortable in the heat of the day, but come the evening breezes they take on a more agreeable air. Around La Ventosa, 15km northeast of Juchitán, strong north winds blow, sometimes toppling high vehicles.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009