Introducing Pulau Tioman
Its beaches washed by the blue-green waters of the South China Sea, turtle-shaped Pulau Tioman is the largest and most impressive of the east coast islands. Its sheer size (20km long and 11km wide) makes it more developed than the other east coast islands and it boasts a wider range of activities. Snorkelling and diving in the clear waters introduce visitors to the wonderful aquatic world of the South China Sea, while landlubbers can simply laze around on sandy beaches, develop a taste for duty-free beer while slung out on hammocks between palms, tune into the slapping surf or explore the rugged jungle trails of the interior.
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Back in the late 1950s Hollywood got wind of Tioman and made it the setting for the mythical Bali Hai in the film South Pacific. This high-tide mark is fondly recalled by Tioman’s islanders who also affectionately remember how Time magazine ranked the island among the world’s 10 most beautiful islands, way back in the 1970s. Needless to say, crowds (190, 000 annually) have surged to the island ever since, seeking a taste of paradise (and an all-over tan).
To bring you up to date: an airport materialised (sandwiched between vertiginous mountains and the sea), a further airstrip to be built on reclaimed land is planned, express (including speedboat) ferry services to the mainland multiplied, a rough road was built to Juara on the east coast, dive schools have flourished, the internet appeared in the late 1990s, a controversial RM40 million marina was under construction in Tekek at the time of writing (where up to 36 yachts will be able to dock) and the island has emerged as a duty-free zone with beers less than half the price of cans on the peninsula. With the price of alcohol in Malaysia being what it is, this last attraction can only add to the island’s winning portfolio.
It comes as no surprise, then, that Tioman today is geared almost entirely to tourism. This may have flawed the island’s perfection, but it hasn’t dented the unflagging friendliness of the locals – wherever you go on Tioman, you are met with warmth and chirpy hospitality. The permanent population is small, with just a handful of small kampung (villages) dotted around the coast; the mountainous jungle of the interior is home only to monkeys and other wildlife (and the occasional honking of 4WDs).
Visitors outnumber villagers outside the monsoon (November to February), and at certain times of the year (usually July and August) Tioman can get quite crowded, especially in Kampungs Air Batang and Salang. During the summer crush, parts of the island have litter problems (but increasing numbers of rubbish bins are sorting this out) and sandflies can be endemic at many of the island’s beaches.
At other times, especially during the monsoon, Tioman can be virtually deserted. Boat travel is interrupted during bad monsoon weather (especially during November and December) and some resorts shut up shop, but rainy days are interspersed with sunshine and calm seas, in particular during the low monsoon (January and February), when it may not rain for weeks. If you’re not on a frantic agenda and a day or two either in Mersing or marooned on Tioman is not a problem, this can be an ideal time to visit.
A fascinating array of fauna and flora flourishes on Tioman, and the underwater world around the island remains largely intact, offering some of the best diving and snorkelling in Malaysia. To delve deeper into local history, pick up a copy of Call of the Dragon: A History of Tioman Island (Dr Tarek Amin and Karen K Gustafson; RM37), available at the Featherlight Cafe in the airport building, in Tekek.
Bear in mind that everything stocked in shops on Tioman is shipped over from the mainland and tends to be expensive (except beer and tobacco), so stock up on essentials, such as mosquito repellent containing DEET, before you arrive.
Last updated: Mar 24, 2009
