Introducing Johor Bahru
Capital of the state of Johor, Johor Bahru (popularly called JB) is the southern gateway to Peninsular Malaysia, connected to Singapore by road and rail across a 1038m-long Causeway. JB inevitably suffers from comparisons with its successful, plutocratic southern neighbour. Historical significance and pockets of interest aside, few foreign travellers linger in JB, and the city is largely a transit point for those on the way to more exotic destinations. On the practical side, flying into or out of JB rather than using Singapore as a regional transport hub can net big savings on tickets.
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On weekends and public holidays, Singaporeans flock across the Causeway for shopping and excitement. Central JB exudes a seedy border-town feel, but a government crackdown on JB’s fleshpot reputation, coupled with a spiralling crime rate (including bag-snatching and car theft) have sent male Singaporeans elsewhere for their paid pleasures. Street theatre is provided by medicine vendors dangling snakes and promising penis enlargement with their elixirs; turbaned bomoh (Islamic spiritual healers) selling magical ‘love oil’ at astronomical prices; and Chinese fortune tellers divining futures with the hexagrams of the yijing. (Book of Changes or I-Ching). The kedai gunting rambut (barber shops) are a frequent sight, offering not haircuts, but women.
A major part of the Singapore–Johor–Riau growth triangle (Sijori), JB is a burgeoning centre of investment and construction. A distinctively designed international convention centre, topped with an angled, oblate roof, is going up while a colossal construction site adjacent to the train station is set to house the vast new Customs, Immigration and Quarantine complex (CIQ complex; tentatively due for completion in 2006), changing the face of Johor Bahru at one costly swipe. Relations with its southerly neighbour continue to be prickly and Malaysia and Singapore are still wrangling over a new bridge to replace the aged Causeway.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
