Gunung Mulu National Park

Introducing Gunung Mulu National Park

A Unesco-listed site widely regarded as Sarawak’s top attraction, Gunung Mulu is the most heavily promoted of the state’s national parks and one of the most popular destinations in Borneo. The park is an unspoilt wilderness offering caving, trekking and wildlife-viewing. It can be enjoyed simply for its beauty, or tackled as a challenge that even experienced outdoors enthusiasts will relish. However, as a privately managed park, Mulu is also the source of considerable controversy with regard to political profiteering and native land rights.

Among the remarkable features in this 529-sq-km park are the two mountain ranges, one of sandstone and one of limestone, that abut within its boundaries. The sandstone peak of Gunung Mulu is 2377m, and the limestone Gunung Api reaches 1750m. In between are more rugged mountains, deep gorges with clear rivers, and a unique mosaic of habitats supporting fasci­nating and diverse species of wildlife. Mulu’s most famous attractions, though, are the Pinnacles, a forest of razor-sharp limestone peaks clustered 45m above the rainforest, and the so-called Headhunters’ Trail, which follows an old tribal war path. If you’re planning on doing any serious trekking in Sarawak, this park should be your first port of call.

As if that wasn’t enough, further charms lie below the surface of Mulu’s forested crags; numerous spectacular caves are open to visitors, and a network of under­ground passages stretches over 300km underneath the park itself.

A few years ago cave explorers here discovered the largest chamber in the world, the Sarawak Chamber, reputed to be the size of 16 football fields.

Access to the park is either a long trip by boat from Marudi or a 40-minute flight. Expect to wait several days to a week to be confirmed on one flight. You can probably get to Mulu easily enough on stand-by, but getting back this way might mean a few extra days at the park.

Transport hassles are one reason many travellers resort to tours, even though Mulu is easily explored without a prearranged package. The other reason is cost. Trekking on your own can be expensive; guide fees and boat hire can seem unreasonably high because the rates are based on groups. Once you get to the park, though, it’s also possible to get together with other visitors and hire freelance guides.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009