Skopje is full of rental-car agencies, from the large ones (Hertz, Avis, Sixt) to dozens of local companies. The choices in Ohrid and Bitola are more limited. Tourist brochures give comprehensive lists. A smallish sedan like a Ford Focus costs about €40 a day, including insurance. You need to present your passport, driving licence and a credit card. You normally need to have held a full driving licence for one year.
Rental agencies provide insurance for around €15 to €25 a day, depending on the type of car, with a nonwaivable excess of €1000 to €2500. Green Card insurance is accepted, and third-party insurance is compulsory.
The bus network is well developed in Macedonia, with frequent services from Skopje to all major centres in safe and fairly comfortable coaches. It’s a good idea to buy a ticket from the station a day or two in advance when travelling to Ohrid in the busy summer season.
Macedonia has a limited network of domestic destinations reachable by train. Possibly the only one of any real interest is the four-hour, three-times-daily service to Bitola via Prilep from Skopje. The most you’ll pay for a domestic ticket is 370MKD for a return to Bitola. Timetables are available on the website of Macedonian Railways (www.mz.com.mk/patnichki/timetable.htm).
Taxis are a snappy way of getting to out-of-the-way monasteries and other sights if buses aren’t convenient. Macedonian taxis are very cheap by European standards – Skopje has some of the cheapest capital-city taxis. A half-hour trip, from Skopje to Lake Matka for example, should cost around 350MKD.
Cycling around Macedonia is becoming more popular. The country offers generally good road conditions and relatively light traffic – though beginners should be warned it is a mountainous country.