San Gimignano

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Introducing San Gimignano

As you crest the hill coming from the east, the 14 towers of this walled town look like a medieval Manhattan. And when you arrive you might well feel that half of Manhattan has moved in. Within easy reach of both Siena and Florence, San Gimignano is a tourist magnet. Come in winter or early spring to indulge your imagination a little; in summer you’ll spend your time dodging fellow visitors. Even then, though, you’ll discover a different, almost peaceful San Gimignano once the last bus has pulled out.

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There’s good reason for such popularity. The towers, which once numbered 72, were symbols of the power and wealth of the city’s medieval families. San Gimignano delle Belle Torri (meaning ‘of the Fine Towers’ – though they’re actually almost devoid of design and rather dull unless sheer height impresses you) is surrounded by lush, productive land and the setting is altogether enchanting.

Originally an Etruscan village, the town was named after the bishop of Modena, San Gimignano, who is said to have saved the city from Attila the Hun. It became a comune in 1199, but continually fought with Volterra. Internal battles between the Ardinghelli (Guelph) and Salvucci (Ghibelline) families over the next two centuries caused divisions. Most of the towers were built during this period; in the 13th century, one podestà (town chief) forbade the building of towers higher than his own 51m pile. In 1348 plague wiped out much of the population and weakened the nobles’ power, leading to the town’s submission to Florence in 1353. Today, not even the plague would deter the summer swarms.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009

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