Many visitors see Naples as little more than an unruly porthole to fabled destinations like Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Big mistake. Italy's third largest city is one of its oldest, most artistic and most delicious. Its centro storico (historic centre) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its museums boast some of Europe's finest archaeology and art, and its swag of royal palaces and castles make Rome look positively provincial.
Then there's the food: Naples is one of Italy's culinary heavyweights, serving up the country's best pizza, pasta and coffee, and many of its most-delicious seafood dishes, street snacks and sweet treats.
Certainly, Naples can feel anarchic, tattered and unloved. But look beyond the grime and graffiti and you'll uncover a city of breathtaking frescoes, sculptures and panoramas, of bewitching street life, of spontaneous conversations and profound humanity. Welcome to Italy's most unlikely masterpiece.