Cliffs of Moher

Introducing Cliffs of Moher

Star of a million tourist brochures, the Cliffs of Moher (Aillte an Mothair, or Ailltreacha Mothair) are one of the most popular sights in Ireland. But like many an ageing star, you have to look beyond the glitz to appreciate the inherent attributes behind the cliché.

The cliffs rise to a height of 203m. They are entirely vertical and the cliff edge abruptly falls away into the constantly churning sea. A series of heads, the dark limestone seems to march in a rigid formation that amazes, no matter how many times you look.

Such appeal comes at a price, however: mobs. This is check-off tourism big time and busloads come and go constantly in summer. To handle the crowds, a vast new visitor centre opened in 2007. Set back into the side of a hill, it’s impressively unimpressive – it blends right in. However, as part of the development, the main walkways and viewing areas along the cliffs have been surrounded by a 1.5m-high wall. It’s lovely stone but it’s also way too high and set too far back from the edge. The entire reason for coming here (the view – unless you’re a bus-spotter) is obscured.

However, like so many oversubscribed natural wonders, there’s relief and joy if you’re willing to walk 10 minutes away. Past the end of the ‘Moher Wall’ south, there’s still a trail along the cliffs to Hag’s Head – few venture this far. There’s also a path heading north but you’re discouraged from it, so use your common sense. With binoculars you can spot the more than 30 species of birds, including puffins, that make their homes among the craggy cliff-faces. On a clear day you’ll channel Barbra Streisand as you can see forever; the Aran Islands stand etched on the waters of Galway Bay, and beyond lie the hills of Connemara in western Galway.

For uncommon views of the cliffs and wildlife you might consider a cruise. Most of the boat operators in Doolin offer tours of the cliffs. Cliffs of Moher Cruises (065-707 5949; www.mohercruises.com ; Doolin Pier; adult/child €20/10; Apr-Oct) is a popular choice.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009