Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) and despite the city’s scruffy waterfront, its sprawling gnarl of deafening traffic, and complete lack of endearing cultural or architectural elements, this is a place you can get used to. Chalk it up to Kupang’s easy-to-navigate but still vaguely chaotic public transport system; the romantic, ramshackle Lavalon bar with its incredible oceanfront perch; and its funky, bass-heavy bemo fleet which ferries Kupang’s young, diverse student population. Kupang is a university town, after all. It's also a regional transport hub, so you will do some Kupang time. Just don’t be surprised if between trips to the interior, Alor or Rote, you discover that you actually dig it. England’s Captain Bligh had a similar epiphany when he spent 47 days here after that emasculating mutiny on the Bounty incident in 1789.