Introducing Old Goa
Gazing at Old Goa today it’s hard to believe that this fallen city was once able to stand up to Lisbon and demand, ‘Who’s the man?’. But back in the 1500s and with a population exceeding that of Lisbon and London, that’s exactly what Old Goa was able to do. However the good times didn’t last long and both the Inquisition and a major epidemic did their best to decimate this decadent and immoral dollop of Portugal. Finally, in 1843, the capital was shifted to the far more prim and proper Panaji.
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All that’s now left of Golden Goa are half-a-dozen imposing churches and cathedrals (among the largest in Asia) and an awful lot of atmosphere.
Old Goa can get crowded on weekends and in the 10 days leading up to the Feast of St Francis Xavier on 3 December. The Archaeological Survey of India publishes the useful guide Old Goa (Rs 10), available from the archaeological museum.
Last updated: Mar 2, 2009

