Schleswig-Holstein

Introducing Schleswig-Holstein

Cows and coastline – these are the two faces of Schleswig-Holstein’s split personality. But while this flat peninsula between the North and Baltic Seas is 70% covered in farmland, it’s the other 30% that interests most visitors.

Sandy beaches, jaunty red-and-white striped lighthouses, fjords, sandpipers and seals have traditionally made this Germany’s stay-at-home summer retreat. Since reunification in 1990 more adventurous souls have been heading to Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. However, the islands off Schleswig-Holstein’s western coast remain the country’s answer to the Côte d’Azur. Of course, the northern European weather makes for a funny sort of answer, as cold winds and dark clouds periodically drive the hardiest holidaymakers from their Strandkörbe (sheltered straw seats). Yet, there’s something unusually beguiling about the state’s wide horizons, grass-covered dunes and meandering canals. Snuggled up against Denmark, Schleswig-Holstein belonged solely to that country until 1864 and you’ll find Scandinavian overtones and remnants of a Viking past, particularly in the town of Schleswig, which also boasts the state’s best art museum.

Local artists are among the few to have positively embraced the moodier side of Schleswig-Holstein’s beauty. At home in Seebüll, Emil Nolde swirled his brushes into stormy oil-paint waves; Theodor Storm set his novella, Der Schimmelreiter (The Rider on the White Horse), along the Husum coast; and contemporary literary giant Günter Grass moved to Lübeck years ago.Lübeck is a story unto itself, as memorable as one of Grass’ thumping great tomes. The former headquarters of the medieval Hanseatic League, it’s one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval towns – and reason alone to visit the region.

Kiel

Rebuilt in a hurry after its U-Boot (submarine) base meant that it was shattered during WWII, modern Kiel has the sort of face only a mother could love. But then what an unfeasible number of mothers it turns out to have too! Yes, some locals admit, the Schleswig-Holstein capital is grottenhässlich (ugly as sin) downtown, but they staunchly defend the place for its location on an 18km-long Förde (firth) and its friendly, relaxed personality. The waterfront Kiellinie is its most popular promenade, and there are some pretty quarters inland (if you look hard enough).

Whether visitors leave convinced depends on whom they meet and their fascination for places where you have to scratch below the surface. There’s little debate that ‘Kiel Sailing City’s’ most romantic aspect is the water, where huge ferries transport millions of passengers to and from Scandinavia during the year and the international Kieler Woche regatta fills the city with sailing ships and merrymakers every June.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009