Filled with heart, soul and character, the bustling old port of Bastia is a good surprise. Sure, it might not measure up to the sexy style of Ajaccio or the architectural appeal of Bonifacio, but it has an irresistible magnetism. Don't be put off by its hectic traffic, peeling paintwork and ramshackle tenement blocks. Bastia is an authentic snapshot of modern-day Corsica, a lived-in city that's resisted the urge to polish up its image just to please the tourists. Allow yourself at least a day to take in the city's seething old port, compelling museum and dramatic citadel.