Introducing Dire Dawa

Ethiopia’s second-most populous town, Dire Dawa always elicits strong reactions. Some travellers rave about its remarkably spacious and orderly layout (a rarity in Ethiopia), its tree-lined streets, neat squares and colonial buildings, while others think it’s utilitarian and self-contained.

Sure, Dire Dawa lacks Harar’s charisma, but if you don’t dismiss it you’ll discover it has its fair share of beguiling sights and some inviting quarters.

With Babel-like ambience, the enormous Kafira Market, in Megala, is the town’s most striking sight. Attracting Afar herders, Somali pastoralists, Oromo farmers and, sometimes around dawn, large camel caravans from the Somali desert.

If you are staying on, Mekonen Hotel (0251 113348; Kezira; r without bathroom Birr40), housed in an old Italian colonial building opposite the train station, features some rooms with plenty of space and some with balconies overlooking the square. The shared bathrooms (with cold showers) can be slightly on the scummy side. A minor trek from the town centre, Tsehay Hotel & Restaurant (0251 110023; Kezira; r Birr60) features cleanish rooms around pleasant, hedged gardens. When we stayed, the plumbing seemed to be on agony’s brink but was still functioning. Its best asset is the onsite restaurant.

Paradiso Restaurant (0251 113780; Kezira; mains Birr15-20; breakfast, lunch & dinner) is the town’s most respected restaurant. Its menu roves from palatable Italian to traditional gut-busters, such as kitfo (uncooked minced beef or lamb in butter, berbere and sometimes thyme).