Linked by a traffic artery, Kato Pafos (Lower Pafos) and Ktima (Upper Pafos; 3km to the northeast) form a schizoid whole. Kato Pafos, the tourist centre, is blatantly geared towards English tourists, with the inevitable all-day English breakfasts and bars. It could be worse: construction along the palm-fringed seafront is low-rise and, as well as being home to a vast archaeological site, Kato Pafos has backstreets hiding other historic gems like medieval baths, catacombs and a simple fishermen’s church. The official Pafos Archaeological Site is the grand-slam sight, however, being one of the South’s richest archaeological locales. When you’re standing (relatively) alone here, surrounded by acres of history, a vast blue sky and the wild fennel and caper plants that grow on the Mediterranean’s edges, you feel a thousand years away from Guinness on tap.
Ktima, the old centre of Pafos, is overall a calmer place, where locals go about their daily business much as they have for decades. The neighbourhoods are rich with handsome colonial buildings that house government institutions and many of the town’s museums. Ktima is also home to some good hotels.