Linked by a road artery, Kato Pafos (Lower Pafos) and Ktima (Upper Pafos) form an interesting whole. Kato Pafos, the tourist centre, has endless neon lights, bad music, and bars and clubs promising to cover their customers in suds; yet it has the South’s most fascinating archaeological sites. When you’re standing (relatively) alone in the midst of the Pafos Archaeological Site, surrounded by acres of history, a vast blue sky and the wild fennel and caper plants that grow on the Mediterranean’s edges, you feel thousands of years away from the tourist paraphernalia.
Ktima, the real centre of Pafos, has managed to escape the tourist building boom; it’s a calmer place where ‘real Pafiots’ go about their daily business. It has lovely colonial buildings housing government institutions and many of the town’s museums. Its old Turkish quarter, Mouttalos, is run-down and slightly deserted, but gives an idea of how things looked 30 years ago. But the highlight of Ktima is its excellent restaurants.