Manzanillo

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Introducing Manzanillo

The idyllic little village of Manzanillo has long been a destination off the beaten track. Until 2003 the 13km road from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca was a rutted, bumpy affair that could take 45 minutes by car or bus. Today, a paved road has cut drive time down to 15 minutes; even better, cycling the gorgeous stretch of perfect, palm-lined beaches is now a relatively smooth option.

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Though some worry that the easier access will funnel too many tourists in from Puerto Viejo, this region remains among the most pristine on the coast, thanks to ecologically minded locals and the 1985 establishment of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo, which actually encompasses the village and imposes strict regulations on further development of the region.

The pristine stretch of sandy white beach – protected by a rocky headland – is the focal point of the village. Most of Manzanillo’s activity takes place right here, including sunning, snorkeling and surfing. A few simple cabinas and sodas are sprinkled along the dusty streets that run parallel to the beach. Beyond that, it’s just trees and monkeys.

Wildlife, not nightlife, is the main attraction on this end of the road, where folks wake up early to take advantage of the fog-shrouded beauty of the morning, while those in Puerto Viejo are still rocking out. (Though Manzanillo does have its moments, courtesy of Maxi’s.) Beaches are pristine and postcard perfect, but note that the stretch from the Almonds & Coral Lodge all the way to Punta Mona has potentially dangerous riptides. Swimmers are cautioned to inquire locally about conditions before diving in.

The Casa de Guías (759 9064) provides Internet access (per hour US$3), camping facilities (per person US$8) and local tours.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009

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