Things to do in Ouagadougou
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Moro-Naba Palace Ceremony
Such is the influence of the Moro-Naba of Ouagadougou, the emperor of the Mossi and the most powerful traditional chief in Burkina Faso, that the government will still make a show of consulting him before making any major decision. The portly present Moro-Naba (the 37th) is, typically for his dynasty, an imposing figure.
The Moro-Naba ceremony (la cérémonie du Nabayius Gou), takes place every Friday at the Moro-Naba Palace. It's a very formal ritual that lasts only about 15 minutes. Prominent Mossis arrive by taxi, car and moped (also known as mobylettes), greet each other and sit on the ground according to rank: in the first row sit the Moro-Naba's spokesman and his ch…
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Éspace Gondwana
Wow! Tucked away to the east of Ouaga, this stunning restaurant is the city's most atmospheric. The restaurant has a courtyard where music is often played, and the three dining rooms are richly adorned with masks (all for sale) and traditional furniture. Each room is themed in a different style - Gourounsi, Mauritanian and a Tuareg tent. The food is also splendid, from the brochette de capitaine, sauce Hollandaise and bite-sized tapas to the banana cake for dessert. It also has the widest selection of masks that we found in Ouaga, and prices are agreeable. Everything's for sale here (including the furnishings) except, as one waiter pointed out, the staff.
There's also a c…
reviewed
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Musée National
After its long-awaited move to new premises, the Musée National has been left a little out on a limb, almost 10km east of the town centre. The displays of the various masks, ancestral statues (especially from Lobi country) and traditional costumes of Burkina Faso's major ethnic groups are the highlights.
The museum is still a work-in-progress - the various dusty pavilions (one for each region of the country) are marooned and somewhat bereft in the expansive grounds, and the labelling (French-only) is haphazard. To get there, take a taxi, or take Sotrao bus 1 which runs from the city centre along Ave de la Nation.
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Musée De La Musique
The Musée De La Musique is a good place to spend an hour if you have an interest in traditional music. The uncluttered displays in an imaginatively designed exhibition space include tambours (drums), flutes, xylophones and luth (harps) from around the country. Among the highlights are the impressive lan or castagnettes de pieds (foot castanets).
There are informative labels in French throughout, and a guide will show you around (a tip is appreciated) but it's only worthwhile if you speak French; otherwise he'll simply point and say 'drum'.
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Thomas Sankara's Grave
Thomas Sankara's Grave is on the depressing and ill-kept eastern outskirts of Ouagadougou, and is one of a number in the area belonging to high-profile supporters of his government. There's not a lot to see, but it's a poignant reminder of a more hopeful time in Burkina Faso's recent history and a site of enormous political significance. The grave is about 6km east of the city centre.
To get there, charter a taxi for the hour, although some drivers won't take you because roads close to the grave are in a dire state.
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Restaurant Akwaba
Friendly service, decent African food and spectacularly kitsch ceiling fans (they even turn them on sometimes but only when you ask) are the order of the day here. The mainly Ivorian dishes take a while to prepare but the foutou (sticky yam or plantain paste) is strangely addictive and goes perfectly with the poulet de kedjenou (slowly simmered chicken with peppers and tomatoes). The brochette de capitaine also stands out.
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Le Coq Bleu
You get what you pay for here - the menu is pricey but the French cooking is of the highest order. It's the sort of place to consider when you've been on the African road for a while and you're looking to stimulate jaded taste buds with a touch of class. The blue décor is tasteful and soothing, but the schmaltzy background music will have you scraping off the wallpaper. It also has a well-stocked bar.
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Sindabal's
Most travellers who come to Ouaga on a budget end up here at some point. It's a low-key place with a varied menu (including spaghetti bolognese and some Lebanese dishes) and the only downside - vaguely disconcerting street smells at the outdoor tables if the wind's blowing the wrong way - could easily apply to any outdoor place in town. It's not a brilliant place but it's one of a kind in Ouaga.
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Restaurant l'Eau Vive
This Ouagadougou institution is run by an order of nuns and promises an air-conditioned haven from the clamour outside; there's also a garden dining area out the back. The menu is mainly French but has the occasional nod to African flavours. Profits go to the order's charitable works and, for the truly surreal bit, don't be surprised if you're there at 21:30 and the nuns burst into song.
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Baratapas
Baratapas, just around the corner from the STMB bus station, comes very close to being our new favourite place in Ouaga. The courtyard is filled with the innovative work of local artists and occasional exhibitions, the food is excellent and creative, and Alain, the owner, is a delight. The salads in particular are enormous. In short, we can't recommend this place highly enough.
reviewed
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Restaurant de Chine
If you believe expats and wealthy locals (and there's no reason not to) this is Ouaga's best Chinese restaurant. After spending time in Ouaga's markets you'll wonder where they get the fine cuts of meat and the freshest of ingredients. Not surprisingly, it's a popular place, especially on weekends when the extensive and varied menu and the attentive service draw the crowds.
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Tour Guide - Eugene Compaoré
Ouagadougou is an easy city to navigate on your own, but to see more than just the tourist sites, contact the excellent Tour Guide, Eugene Compaoré, who speaks French, English and Spanish. He is experienced at finding everything from buzzing Ouaga nightlife away from the expat crowd to the ideal place for getting your hair braided. Prices are negotiable.
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Monopole Plus
This pleasant outdoor bar-restaurant does salads, brochettes and sandwiches for starters, and a range of African-flavoured beef, chicken and fish dishes for mains. The yassa poulet riz blanc is especially good. There's also a swimming pool around which are pleasant straw paillotes and, in the evening, wealthy locals looking to pick up.
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Maquis Le Pouvoir
This central and popular outdoor place offers good and well-priced African staples, with plenty of foutou and grilled meats, and a few nods to European tastes in the form of hamburgers. It's a slightly classier atmosphere than your average maquis and is as popular with expats as with locals. Highly recommended.
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Zaka
Right in the heart of Ouaga, Zaka is a hybrid live performance venue and cultural centre, with groups playing traditional or modern music from around 20:30 (sometimes there's a small cover charge but usually it's free). At other times it's a pleasant open-air watering hole, something that is an oasis for this part of town.
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Café des Pros
Inside the Village Artisanal, Café des Pros allows you to combine eating and shopping, and is therefore convenient if you're down this way. The food (spaghetti or riz sauce) is simple, and takes a while to cook, but it's quiet, pleasant and reasonably priced.
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Nuance
It's hard to beat this boutique for its combination of eclectic African art, textiles, clothing and carvings, all at reasonable (and fixed) prices. It supports local artists with occasional exhibitions, and its setting back from the street lends it a tranquil air.
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Centre National d'Artisanat et d'Art
Profits here go directly to the artisan and although the quality of the products is mixed, take time to look over the bronze statues, wooden sculptures and colourful batiks, for there are some gems among the standard items you'll find elsewhere.
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Village Artisanal de Ouaga
This government-run co-operative has, arguably, the widest range of products - clothing, textiles, leatherwork, painting, wood- and metal-carving, and jewellery - and is ideal for getting a fix on prices and quality without the hard sell.
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La Forêt
One of Ouaga's longest-standing restaurants with African specialties, this upmarket place ranges around a pleasant shady garden. It's not the most extensive menu in town but they do offer a few selections each day, all well prepared.
reviewed
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Ciné Burkina
Built for Fespaco in the late 1960s, this has a wide screen and good seats. It regularly shows African-produced films, as well as recent international releases and a diet of kung fu and Bollywood hands-in-the-air extravaganzas.
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Jimmy's Discotheque
For a more DJ-driven experience, plus well-heeled patrons, and Western dance music with occasional African rhythms, try this place. It gets going by 23:00 on weekends and doesn't close until the last punters stagger home.
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Le Cave à Vins
Stepping inside this sophisticated, French-run wine boutique is like momentarily escaping Ouaga for the south of France. Although it's aimed more at the expat market, prices for French wines are surprisingly reasonable.
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Chez Tante Propre
Some of the more rustic places stay open as late as there are customers. Chez Tante Propre is a wildly popular hole in the wall where they turn out yogurt sandwiches and simple rice dishes.
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Centre Culturel Français Georges Mélies
Your best (and possibly only) chance of catching a concert featuring some of the best musicians from Burkina Faso or elsewhere in Africa, is at the Centre Culturel Français Georges Mélies.
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