Veliko Târnovo

Introducing Veliko Târnovo

The evocative capital of the medieval Bulgarian tsars, sublime Veliko Târnovo is dramatically set amidst an amphitheatre of forested hills, divided by the ribboning Yantra River. Commanding pride of place is the magisterial, well-restored Tsarevets Fortress, citadel of the Second Bulgarian Empire. It is complemented by scores of churches and other ruins, many of which are still being unearthed.

Overgrown Trapezitsa Hill, one time residence of Bulgaria’s kings, is especially exciting in this regard, and clambering up to it you will encounter teams of local helpers digging away at numerous church foundations and washing colourful Byzantine ceramic plates. Since there’s much work to be done still, chances are good that Trapezitsa will yield many more treasures.

As the site of Bulgaria’s most prestigious university, Veliko Târnovo also boasts a revved-up nightlife of which many larger towns would be jealous. There’s great food and drink, too, with the best places enjoying stunning views of the river and castle. The old-world ambience of the Varosha quarter, with its terracotta rooftops and lounging cats, makes for wonderful leisurely walks in a place where you can feel the spirit of a ­bygone time.

As one of the main stops on the Bucharest–Istanbul express train, Veliko Târnovo is also a favourite with backpackers, as the ever-increasing number of youth hostels attests. However, it’s also popular with weekending Bulgarians drawn by its romantic ambience and European tour groups peering over the sites. Certainly, it’s one of the ‘obligatory’ destinations for getting the full Bulgarian experience, but Târnovo is well worth it, and will probably draw you in for at least a few days.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009