Moreton Island

Introducing Moreton Island

North of Stradbroke, Moreton Island is a natural wonderland teeming with miles of sandy beaches, freshwater lagoons, rampant wildflowers and prolific birdlife. There is also evidence of the island’s rich history from the ancient shell middens of early Aboriginal settlers to the fortifications leftover from military occupation in 1938. The island was also the site of Queensland’s first and only whaling station, which operated between 1952 and 1962.

Apart from a few rocky headlands, it’s all sand and approximately 95% of the island is national park. Mt Tempest, the highest coastal sand hill in the world, is well worth a trek up – all 280m of it. At the northern tip is the Cape Moreton Lighthouse. Built in 1857, it’s the oldest operating lighthouse in Queensland, and is the place to come for an impressive 360-degree view of the island. Near the lighthouse is the Moreton Island National Park information centre (3408 2710) where you can buy QPWS maps. These are also available from the vehicle ferry offices.

Centrally located off the western coast are the Tangalooma Wrecks, which provide good snorkelling and diving. Also here is the Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, an upmarket hotel situated at the old whaling station; you can still see the flensing deck almost in its original condition. The resort’s main attraction is the wild dolphin feeding, which takes place every evening around sunset. Between five and nine dolphins swim in from the ocean to take fish from the hands of volunteer feeders, but you need to be a guest at the resort to be involved.

The only other settlements on the island are also on the west coast. Bulwer sits near the northwestern tip, Cowan Cowan between Bulwer and Tangalooma, and Kooringal is near the southern tip. There are shops at Kooringal and Bulwer but they’re pricey, so bring what you can from the mainland.

You won’t find any paved roads on Moreton Island, but 4WDs can travel along the beaches and a few cross-island tracks – seek local advice about tides and creek crossings. Vehicle permits for the island cost $35 and are available through the ferry operators or from the Naturally Queensland information centre in Brisbane. Note it’s worth booking your ferry ticket (bookings are mandatory if you want to take a vehicle across) before buying the permit, as barge services to the island are limited.

If you don’t have a car, the only way to get around the island is on foot. Fortunately, there are lots of good walking trails and decommissioned 4WD roads.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009