Buenos Aires Getting there & around

Getting there & around

Argentina is a big country, and most people fly into Buenos Aires to get there. You can bus into the capital from neighboring countries, but this nearly always involves overnight trips. Uruguay is the exception, as it’s just across the Río de la Plata (a huge river estuary) and a relatively short boat or plane ride away.

BA is a large, modern city with good public transportation options, but walking is really the best way to see the sights. The main downtown area is small enough that you could walk from one end to the other in about a half-hour. For longer distances, most people get around by bus, Subte (BA’s subway system) or taxi. Driving is recommended for the suicidal only.

Tickets for flights, tours and rail can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.

Contents

Bus & tram

Bus

Buenos Aires has a huge and complex bus system. If you want to get to know it better you’ll have to buy a Guia T – it’s sold at any newsstand, but try to find the pocket version for around AR$2. It details hundreds of the city’s bus routes. Just look at the grids to find out where you are and where you’re going, and find a matching bus number. Most routes (but not all) run 24 hours; there are fewer buses at night. For a guide to some popular bus routes, see the boxed text below.

Save your change like it’s gold; local buses do not take bills. Bus ticket machines on board will give you small change from your coins. Most rides around town cost AR$0.80, so folks just say ochenta (80) to the bus driver, who cues the ticket machine accordingly (very short rides are AR$0.75). Offer your seat to the elderly, pregnant women and those with young children.

If you’re heading out of town you’ll probably have to visit BA’s modern Retiro bus station. It’s 400m long, three floors high and has slots for 75 buses. The bottom floor is for cargo shipments and luggage storage, the top for purchasing tickets, and the middle for everything else. There’s an information booth (4310-0700) that provides general bus information and schedules; it’ll also help you with the local bus system. Other services include a tourist office (7:30am-1pm Mon-Sat) on the main floor under bus counter 105, telephone offices (some with internet access), restaurants, cafés and dozens of small stores.

You can buy a ticket to practically anywhere in Argentina and departures are fairly frequent to the most popular destinations. Reservations are not necessary except during peak summer and winter holiday seasons. And remember to keep an eye on your bags at this station!

Tram

In July 2007 Buenos Aires inaugurated a new light-rail system in Puerto Madero, called the Tranvía del Este. It’s currently 2km long and has only four stops, with plans extend the line from Retiro to Constitución. It only costs AR$1 to ride, but consider skipping it – stroll on Puerto Madero’s lovely cobbled lanes instead.

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Air

BA is Argentina’s international gateway and easily accessible from North America, Europe and Australasia, as well as most other capital cities in South America. Aerolíneas Argentinas and Lan are the main regional airlines at the moment, but Argentine airlines are in constant flux and come and go very frequently. Even airline offices will often move. Always check current travel information during your tenure here.

Airlines

Aerolíneas Argentinas (0810-222-86527; www.aerolineas.com; Perú 2). Also in Retiro (Leandro N Alem 1134).

Air Canada (4327-3640; www.aircanada.ca; Av Córdoba 656)

Air France (4317-4700; www.airfrance.com; San Martín 344, 23rd fl)

Alitalia (4310-9999; www.alitalia.com; Av Santa Fe 887)

American Airlines (www.aa.com; 4318-1111; Av Santa Fe 881)

British Airways (0800-222-0075; www.britishairways.com; Av del Libertador 498, 13th fl)

Continental (0800-333-0425; www.continental.com; Carlos Pellegrini 529)

Delta (www.delta.com; 0800-666-0133; Santa Fe 887)

KLM (4326-8422; www.klm.com; San Martín 344, 23d fl)

Lan (4378-2222; www.lan.com; Cerrito 866)

Líneas Aéreas del Estado (LADE; 5129-9001; www.lade.com.ar; Perú 714)

Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano (LAB; 4323-1900; www.labairlines.com.bo; Carlos Pellegrini 141)

Lufthansa (4319-0600; www.lufthansa.com; MT de Alvear 590, 6th fl)

Swissair (www.swiss.com; 4319-0000; Av Santa Fe 846, 1st fl)

Transportes Aéreos de Mercosur (TAM; 0810-333-3333; www.tam.com.py, in Spanish; Cerrito 1026)

United Airlines (0810-777-8648; www.united.com.ar; Av Eduardo Madero 900, 1st fl)

Varig (4329-9211; www.varig.com.br, in Portuguese; Córdoba 972, 3rd fl)

Airports

Almost all international flights arrive at Buenos Aires’ Ezeiza airport (EZE; officially Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini), about 35km south of the center. Ezeiza is a modern airport with decent services like ATMs, restaurants and duty-free shops. There’s also an overpriced internet café and iffy wi-fi.

Most domestic flights use Aeroparque airport (officially Aeroparque Jorge Newbery), a short distance from downtown Buenos Aires. Flight information for both airports, in English and Spanish, is available by calling 5480-6111 or accessing www.aa2000.com.ar.

If you’re alone, the best way to and from Ezeiza is taking a shuttle with transfer companies such as Manuel Tienda León (MTL; 4315-5115; www.tiendaleon.com; cnr Av Eduardo Madero & San Martín). You’ll see its stand immediately as you exit customs, in the transport ‘lobby’ area. Shuttles cost AR$32 to AR$35 one way, run every half-hour from 6am to midnight and take about 40 minutes, depending on traffic. It’ll deposit you either at its office (from where you can take a taxi) or at some central hotels. Avoid its taxi service, which is overpriced at AR$95; if you want to take a taxi just go past the transport ‘lobby’ area, through the doors to the reception area and find the freestanding city taxi stand (blue sign), which charges AR$78 to the center. MTL also does transfers from Ezeiza to Aeroparque for AR$38.

Or if you’re really on a budget you can take public bus 86, which costs AR$1.35 and can take up to two hours to reach the Plaza de Mayo area. Catch it outside the Aerolíneas Argentinas terminal, a short walk (200m) from the international terminal. You’ll need change; there’s a Banco de la Nación just outside customs.

To get from Aeroparque to the center, take public bus 33 or 45 (don’t cross the street; take them going south). MTL has shuttles to the center for AR$12; taxis cost around AR$15.

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Car & motorcycle

Anyone considering driving in Buenos Aires should know that most local drivers are reckless, aggressive and even willfully dangerous. They’ll ignore speed limits, road signs, road lines and often traffic signals. They’ll tailgate you mercilessly and honk even before signals turn green. Buses are a nightmare to reckon with, potholes are everywhere, traffic is a nightmare and parking is too. Pedestrians haphazardly cross the road (seeming to beg to be run over at times).

Reconsider your need to have a car in this city: public transportation will often get you anywhere faster, cheaper and with much less stress. And you won’t have to worry about the police, who have a habit of stopping cars to check for violations, while subtly asking for coimas (bribes). If this happens to you when you weren’t doing anything illegal, insist on contacting your embassy – too much trouble for some officers.

Rental

If you want to rent a car, expect to pay around AR$150 to AR$170 per day (it may be worth trying to make a reservation with one of the major international agencies in your home country, as these can sometimes guarantee stable rates). You’ll need to be at least 21 years of age and have a valid driver’s license; having an international driver’s license wouldn’t be a bad idea, though you don’t necessarily need one. A credit card and passport are also necessary. We recommend:

Avis (4326-5542; www.avis.com.ar; Cerrito 1527)

Hertz (4816-8001; www.hertzargentina.com.ar; Paraguay 1138)

New Way (4515-0331; www.new-wayrentacar.com.ar; MT de Alvear 773)

Victory (4381-4731; www.victoryrentacar.com.ar; Lima 509)

For motorcycle rentals head to Motocare (4782-1500; www.motocare.com.ar; Av del Libertador 6588). Honda Transalps 650 cost about AR$280 per day with a four-day minimum (they’re cheaper by the month). Bring your own helmet and riding gear. Crossing into Chile, Uruguay, Paraguay and Brazil is allowed. If you buy a motor-cycle here you can negotiate to sell it back, possibly saving money in the long term.

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Boat

There’s a regular ferry service to and from Colonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay. Most ferries leave from the Buquebus terminal (4316-6500; www.buquebus.com; Av Antártida Argentina 821); there’s another Buquebus office at Av Córdoba 879. Cacciola (4393-6100; www.cacciolaviajes.com; Florida 520, 1st fl, suite 112) has ferries that leave from way up north in Tigre. Both companies have many more launches in the busy summer season.

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Train

Trains connect Buenos Aires’ center to its suburbs and nearby provinces. They’re best for commuters and not that useful for tourists, however. Several private companies run different train lines; the most central train stations (all served by Subte) and some destinations are listed below:

Ferrovias (Belgrano line; 0800-777-3377; www.ferrovias.com.ar) To Villa Rosa and the northern suburbs.

Trenes de Buenos Aires (TBA, Mitre line; 0800-333-3822; www.tbanet.com.ar) To Belgrano, San Isidro, Tigre, Rosario.

Transportes Metropolitanos (San Martín line; 4011-5826; www.metropolitano.com.ar) To Pilar and the northern suburbs.

Metropolitano (Roca line; 0800-1-2235-8736) To the southern suburbs and La Plata.

Ferrobaires (4306-7919; www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar) Bahía Blanca and Atlantic beach towns.

Trenes de Buenos Aires (Sarmiento line; 0800-333-3822; www.tbanet.com.ar) To the southwestern suburbs and Luján.

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More about Buenos Aires