Things to do in Buenos Aires
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Eco Yoga Park
And for something completely different – Eco Yoga Park, located about 1½ hours west of Buenos Aires, near Lújan.
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Cementerio de la Recoleta
Wander for hours in this amazing cemetery where ‘streets’ are lined with impressive statues and marble sarcophagi. Crypts hold the remains of the city’s elite: past presidents, military heroes, influential politicians and the rich and famous. Hunt down Evita’s grave, and bring your camera – there are some great photo ops here. Tours in English are available at 11am on Tuesday and Thursday (call to confirm). For a great map and information, order Robert Wright’s PDF map at www.recoletacemetery.com.
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Parque Lezama
Scruffy Parque Lezama was once thought to be the site of Buenos Aires’ founding in 1536, but archeological teams recently refuted the hypothesis. Today’s green park hosts old chess-playing gentlemen, bookworms toting mate (traditional Argentine tea) gourds and teenagers kissing on park benches. Don’t miss the striking Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian Orthodox Church) on the north side of the park.
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Notorious
This intimate jazz venue attracts all ages – devoted locals and curious travelers alike – with nightly gigs of serious jazz and world music. Book ahead and visit the record shop before settling in for a show.
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Cumaná
This bright, upbeat eatery is one of the only places in town serving traditional dishes from far-flung provinces of Argentina. The hearty criollo (Spanish/Indian) cuisine baking in the adobe oven includes locro, a thick corn-based stew made with meat and vegetables. Don’t miss the humita, a creamy cheese and corn mixture wrapped up in corncob leaves.
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El Desnivel
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and – of course – the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
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Campo Bravo
While this chic parrilla (grill restaurant) is a relaxing place to tackle a huge steak or a pasta during the day, at night it's a very different beast indeed. While the staff remain cool, on a busy night you can wait up to an hour for a table - it's the price you pay for hanging with the most stylish crowd in Las Cañitas.
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Café Tortoni
While tourists tend to outnumber locals at this landmark cafe (the oldest in the country), it still has a special place in the hearts of older porteños nostalgic for the good old days. Tango shows are held in a separate salon most nights at 9:30pm and 11pm.
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Anuva Wines
US native Daniel Karlin organizes wine tastings – try five boutique vintages with food pairings. Best of all, he’ll send your wines to the USA (arguably BA’s most affordable wine-shipping service) and can deliver within the city.
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El Cuartito
Since 1934, this legendary pizzeria has seen local men polishing off slices at the counter and families sharing fresh empanadas (savory-filled pastries) at tables, surrounded by faded images of sportsmen.
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VOS
Very welcoming language institute located just outside Recoleta.
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Cabaña Las Lilas
Porteños are evenly split as to whether this famous eatery is a fantastically overpriced display of hubris or an upmarket example of parrilla perfection. Tellingly, even those who deride this large waterside restaurant won’t hesitate to thumb through the jumbo wine list, especially if the meal’s on someone else’s dime. The fine beef was raised on the restaurant’s own estancia (ranch).
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Casa Rosada
Standing before this rosy Renaissance-style palace, you can easily imagine Eva Perón pontificating from the lower balcony. This is the Casa Rosada (Pink House), home to Argentina’s presidential offices. Construction began in 1862 on the site of Buenos Aires’ fort, and the building was painted pink shortly after. Visitors marvel at the picturesque coral hue without realizing the gritty fact behind it – at the end of the 19th century, ox blood added color and texture to ordinary whitewash.
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Plaza de Mayo
Founded in 1580 as the city’s first central plaza, Plaza de Mayo is the symbolic and physical center of Argentina’s rocky history. The square’s name commemorates the May Revolution (1810) that began Argentina’s process of independence from Spain. Plaza de Mayo has seen it all – spirited crowds cheering as Evita shouted from the Casa Rosada’s balcony, military bombings in 1955, the march of the Madres as they protest the ‘disappearance’ of their sons.
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Siga la Vaca
Only the truly hungry should set foot in this excellent all-you-can-stuff parrilla. Work your way from the appetizer salad bar to the grill, where the meat hangs out. Eat slowly and pace yourself, and you’ll only need to eat once that day. One drink and a dessert are included in the price, which varies depending on the meal and day.
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Feria San Pedro Telmo
On Sundays, San Telmo’s main drag is closed to traffic and the street is a sea of local families and tourists browsing craft stalls, waiting at vendor’s carts for freshly squeezed orange juice, poking through the antique glass ornaments on display on Plaza Dorrego, and listening to street performances by tango orchestras.
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Gran Bar Danzon
Gran Bar Danzon is the kind of place you drop by with the intention of trying a glass of wine or two with friends – but thanks to the cool urban atmosphere, you’re still there four hours later, sampling sushi and confit of duck and pretending not to stare at the parade of pretty people squeezing past your table.
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Brasserie Petanque
This bright brasserie is a lively spot for Sunday brunch or a leisurely evening meal. Charismatic waiters pour complimentary aperitifs as you ponder steak tartare or roast chicken and peruse the short but wise list of wines by the glass. The prix fixe lunch menu is a steal.
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Bar 6
A stylish neighborhood classic, Bar 6 is open all day – you can drop by for eggs and coffee in the morning or show up at night to lounge on a red velvet couch with a bellini or a beer. The contemporary design, soaring ceilings and foxy crowd make up for the indifferent service.
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Bio
So your better half’s a devoted carnivore but you’re dying for green cuisine? Don’t drag them kicking and screaming to an extreme organic eatery, just take them to Bio for fantastically fresh pastas and salads. The homemade ginger lemonade is heavenly.
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Jardín Japonés
The Jardín Japonés is a peaceful paradise with koi ponds, teahouse and cultural offerings.
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La Cabrera
If you eat at only one steakhouse in BA, make it this one. Some of the city's best meats are grilled up and presented to you on wooden boards, and in huge portions, along with a few dainty condiments (olives, sun-dried tomatoes, goat's cheese) on the side. The ambience is elegant, and considerably less stuffy than most Palermo Viejo eateries.
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El Abasto
The bustling barrios of Abasto and Once, while a little dodgy at night, are part of the ‘real’ Buenos Aires that’s largely unaffected by the tourist trade. Walk west from Congreso along Av Corrientes, or take a quick taxi or Subte ride, to reach this cultural melting pot and commercial district crammed with colorful fabric shops and family-run Jewish and Peruvian eateries. The neighborhood’s centerpiece is the historic Mercado de Abasto, previously a massive fresh produce market and now a beautifully restored structure that houses the shopping mall called simply El Abasto. Nearby, on a gentrified street off Av Anchorena is the former home of tango legend Carlos Ga…
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La Esquina de Las Flores
One of BA’s most enduring vegetarian alternatives, this modern restaurant also has a small health food store on the ground floor that sells soy flour, whole-wheat breads and organic mate (tea), among other things. There’s a small fast-food section, but if you prefer more relaxed surroundings, go upstairs and choose from the tasty and nutritious menu. There’s even a dish for macrobiotics. There’s another branch at Gurruchaga 1630 in Palermo, where free workshops on healthy cooking are occasionally available.
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Boca Tango
What makes Boca Tango unique is the preshow theatrics. A minirepresentation of La Boca’s colorful conventillos (old tenements) has been set up outside the main theater, and performers act out the barrio’s history while interacting with guests. Dinner is set up at a nearby casual dining room in antique surroundings, while the main act takes place on an intimate stage. Unlike at some other shows, children are welcome here. Transport is included, which is fortunate since La Boca isn’t the safest neighborhood.
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