Kielce (kyel-tseh) is ringed by postwar housing projects that on a rainy day, or any day, can look downright dispiriting. But dig a little deeper and you’ll find a lively city with an elegant core, centred on the Rynek (the main square), the cathedral, the remarkable Palace of the Kraków Bishops, and a pretty expanse of parkland surrounding both of them.
Kielce may be still in the throes of a multiyear renovation effort that has scrubbed the central areas and restored some lustre to the Rynek, but as they say in the movies, it's getting better. The long main thoroughfare, ul Sienkiewicza, has been spruced up and features cafes and shops. And the small Silnica River flowing through the middle of town is drawing modestly upscale new developments.