The single brick-paved street in Changu village climbs from the car park and bus stand past the privately owned Changu Museum, which offers a quirky introduction to traditional village life and which escape the earthquake without serious damage. The owner will give you a whistle-stop tour of such oddities as a rhino-skin shield, a raincoat made of leaves, a 500-year-old dishwashing rack and some 225-year-old rice. Not to mention a cow's gallstone and the navel of a musk deer.

There’s also a fascinating coin collection, including the world's smallest coin, leather coins from the 2nd century and one that equates to one-eighth of a paise – meaning 800 pieces are needed to make one rupee!