Must-see restaurants in Kansai

  • Aburaya

    Kansai

    This tiny counter restaurant is inside the Funaya-no-sato michi-no-eki (road station) and looks utterly unremarkable, but locals swear that its kaisen-don…

  • Akafuku Honten

    Kansai

    Akafuku has been making its signature style of mochi (pounded-rice cakes), coated in sweet adzuki-bean paste, for over three centuries. There are several…

  • Nadagiku Kappa-tei

    Himeji

    A local sake brewery runs this casual spot specialising in oden (stew comprising fishcakes, tofu, vegetables and eggs simmered in kelp-flavoured broth),…

  • Aburaya-Shokudō

    Kansai

    Just down the steps from the main gate of Kurama-dera and on the street corner, this classic old-style shokudō is a reminder of Japan before it got rich…

  • Kura

    Nara

    This popular spot in Naramachi is styled like an old storehouse and has just 16 seats around a counter amid dark-wood panels and an old beer sign. Indulge…

  • Kakinohasushi Tatsumi

    Kansai

    This tiny, family-run takeaway shop serves kakinoha-zushi. Choose your fish – salmon (sake), mackerel (saba) or both (combi) – and quantity (the smallest…

  • Ganko Umeda Honten

    Osaka

    At the main branch of this Osaka institution, a large dining hall serves a wide variety of set-course meals and sushi (à la carte or in sets), reasonably…

  • Kumanoko Shokudō

    Kii Peninsula

    This new restaurant – the only place in Hongū serving regularly after dark and naturally a gathering spot – dishes up small plates made with local…

  • Yokarō

    Kansai

    The signature dish here is local speciality yakisaba-sōmen (grilled mackerel over thin wheat noodles). The restaurant is inside a 150-year-old wooden…

  • Hōkon-an

    Kansai

    Take a break and soak up some views at this traditional tea shop serving matcha and freshly made kuzubana (dumplings made from kudzu root – arrowroot –…

  • 310 Amanohashidate

    Kansai

    This unexpectedly chic new spot does set meals of prettily plated grilled fish or sashimi, using seafood caught from the fish market in nearby Miyazu,…

  • Cafe Bonheur

    Kii Peninsula

    An unexpected treasure at Hongū's southern end is this vegan cafe in a former post office (with the wooden floors and clapboard walls to prove it). It…

  • Masuya

    Kansai

    Soba and udon are handmade here using local ingredients; try the house speciality, kamo-zaru (chilled soba served on a bamboo mat with hot broth and duck…

  • Morishige

    Kansai

    In a 150-year-old thatched-roof farmhouse (and with tatami seating and a central hearth), Morishige serves soba, on its own or in a set with small dishes…

  • Planet 3rd

    Osaka

    This large, comfortable cafe in Ame-Mura serves good coffee, drinks and eclectic light meals, including pastas, sandwiches, salads and rice bowls. It has…

  • Kibune Club

    Kansai

    The exposed wooden beams and open, airy feel of this rustic cafe make it a great spot to stop for a cuppa and cake while exploring Kibune. In winter it…

  • Gout

    Osaka

    One of Osaka's best bakeries, Gout (pronounced 'goo', as in French) sells baguettes, pastries, croissants, sandwiches and coffee to take away or eat in…

  • Modernark

    Kōbe

    This adorably funky cafe with a glassed-in verandah is Kōbe's go-to spot for organic vegetarian and vegan meals and cakes, served with herbal tea or…

  • Hiroya

    Kansai

    One of the oldest restaurants offering kawadoko dining in Kibune, Hiroya is a fine choice for eating riverside in summer. It's well known for the…

  • Yokozuna

    Osaka

    This lively local chain has a huge line-up of kushikatsu (skewers), from staples including renkon (lotus root) and mochi (rice cake) to unconventional…

  • Daichi

    Kōbe

    A reliable place for Kōbe beef served teppanyaki (grilled on a steel plate) at entry-level prices: less-expensive cuts start at ¥2500 for 80g and a daily…

  • Washokuya Happoh

    Nara

    A reliable choice offering a variety of dishes, from sashimi to tempura to noodles to wagyū (Japanese beef). Try its speciality: dishes marinated in sake…

  • Tensui

    Kii Peninsula

    With its cluster of private rooms and regulars' personal whisky bottles kept on the shelves, Tensui has a local vibe, but it has happily embraced the…

  • Kinryū Ramen

    Osaka

    Beneath the massive green dragon, this indoor-outdoor spot offers house-made noodles and a front-row seat to the Dōtombori scene. Purchase a ticket from a…

  • Daiki

    Kansai

    Signage reading 'Japan's most famous restaurant' may be an exaggeration, but this is a reliably polished place to sample a huge variety of local seafood…

  • Koyume

    Kansai

    This tiny izakaya (Japanese pub-eatery) serves satisfying classics like agedashi-tofu (creamy, deep-fried tofu) and yaki-zakana (grilled fish), paired…

  • Umekita Dining

    Osaka

    There are dozens of restaurants (including Japanese, French, Spanish and Chinese), plus cafes, bakeries and sweet shops on the upper floors of the Grand…

  • Café Absinthe

    Osaka

    Friendly and trendy, near Ame-Mura's western edge, Absinthe serves cocktails, teas and juices, plus a rare (for Japan) Mediterranean and Middle Eastern…

  • Kyū-yamu-tei

    Osaka

    This cute little shop inside a late 19th-century wooden townhouse on the Karahori Shōtengai serves a changing rotation of eclectic (perhaps incorporating…

  • Kameya

    Nara

    With its red lanterns and plastic food models out the front, Kameya doesn't look like anything special, but the okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) at this…

  • Shinkiraku

    Osaka

    This tempura specialist in the Hilton Plaza packs 'em in at lunchtime but lacks atmosphere at dinner. The small tempura set at lunch comes with rice, miso…

  • Za Ikaga

    Osaka

    The signature dish at this small food stand with a picture menu is ika-yaki – grilled squid, served here in a thin crêpe splattered with egg, mayonaise…

  • Hirai

    Kōbe

    Amid the myriad izakaya (pub-restaurants) and bars northwest of Sannomiya Station, Hirai is a reliably popular spot for its house specialities katsuo wara…

  • Tofujaya Hayashi

    Kansai

    Run by a local tofu maker, this shop sells all sorts of soy-based dishes, from orthodox goma-dōfu (tofu made with ground sesame seeds) to more unexpected…

  • Shinsaibashi Madras 5

    Osaka

    If you've never tried Japanese-style curry rice, this restaurant on a quiet Ame-Mura side street is a good place to get acquainted with its warm, saucy…

  • Satoyama Dining

    Osaka

    Satoyama's all-you-can-eat 'Viking' (buffet) setup lets you choose from mostly Japanese home-style dishes, while enjoying great city views from the…

  • Mellow Café

    Nara

    Part of the somewhat Mediterranean-looking Axe Unit complex (towards the back), Mellow is indeed a relaxed space in which to eat pasta and brick-oven…

  • Gubigabu

    Kansai

    This craft-beer pub near the town centre has four locally brewed house beers on tap and a diverse menu that includes dishes with Tajima beef, such as…

  • Rikimaru

    Himeji

    This reliably good local conveyor-belt sushi chain has a huge selection (including many non-sushi items): choose what catches your eye as it goes round or…

  • Daruma Dōtombori-ten

    Osaka

    The Dōtombori branch of famous kushikatsu specialist Daruma can draw long lines (though there are plenty of seats, so it moves fast). Start with the …