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Crowd of visitors outside the Colosseum on a sunny day.
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Rome

Haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art and iconic monuments combine to thrilling effect in Rome, Italy’s charismatic and highly charged capital. The city is constantly awash with travel-hungry visitors keen to carpe diem and live la dolce vita ⁠— join them on the journey. 

Rome

Day 1

Rome's iconic ruins

Get your energy up for a busy day of exploring Rome's most famous ruins. Pack in the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill before marveling at classical sculptures and Renaissance masterpieces in the Capitoline Museums. Reward yourself after a long day with some imaginative modern Italian cuisine and then a cocktail at an off-beat venue in hip Monti.

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    • Piazza del Colosseo

    No photo can prepare you for the thrill of seeing the Colosseum for the first time. More than any other monument, this muscular amphitheater encapsulates the blood and thunder of ancient Rome, for it was here that gladiators met in mortal combat, and condemned prisoners fought wild beasts in front of frenzied crowds. The emperor Vespasian originally commissioned the amphitheater in 72 CE but he never lived to see it completed and it was inaugurated by his son and successor Titus in 80 CE. To mark the occasion, games were held for 100 days and nights.

    Looking up at the outer walls, you’ll see there are three levels of arches. The upper level had supports for 240 masts that held a giant awning over the arena. On the ground, entrance arches, known as vomitoria, allowed spectators to enter and be seated in a matter of minutes. Inside, the arena had a wooden floor covered in sand – harena in Latin, hence the word ‘arena’ – through which trapdoors led down to the underground backstage area known as the hypogeum. Spectators sat in the cavea: magistrates and senior officials in the lowest tier, wealthy citizens in the middle, and the plebs in the highest tier. Women (except for vestal virgins) were relegated to the cheapest sections at the top. The podium, a broad terrace in front of the tiers of seats, was reserved for the emperor, senators and VIPs.

    Buy a combined 24-hour ticket to enter the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatino online (colosseo.it, €18). You must book a timed entry for the Colosseum and are then free to enter the other sites within 24 hours. 

    • Largo della Salara Vecchia, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova

    An impressive – if rather confusing – spread of ruins, the Roman Forum was ancient Rome's showpiece center, a grandiose district of temples, basilicas and vibrant public spaces. It can be hard to picture this nowadays but if you can get your imagination going, there’s something truly magical about walking in the footsteps of Julius Caesar and other legendary figures. Signature sights include the Arco di Settimio Severo, the Curia, the Tempio di Saturno and the Arco di Tito.

    The site, which was originally a marshy burial ground, was first developed in the 7th century BCE, growing over time to become the political, religious and commercial hub of the Roman empire. On any given day, it hummed with activity as shoppers thronged its teeming streets, senators debated affairs of state, and lawyers hustled in its busy law courts. Like many of ancient Rome's urban developments, the Forum fell into disrepair after the fall of the Roman Empire until it was eventually used as pasture land. In the Middle Ages, it was known as the Campo Vaccino (Cow Field) and extensively plundered for its stone and marble. The area was systematically excavated in the 18th and 19th centuries, and excavations continue to this day.

    From the basilica, Via Sacra, the Forum’s main thoroughfare, leads into the heart of the Forum, where you’ll find some key temples. You’ll see the circular Tempio di Romolo and, beyond that, the columned Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, a 2nd-century CE temple that was subsequently converted into a church. Opposite, the Tempio di Giulio Cesare (also known as the Tempio del Divo Giulio) stands on the spot where Julius Caesar was cremated after his assassination in 44 BCE. Nearby, three white columns are all that remain of the 5th-century BCE Tempio di Castore e Polluce. Tucked away on the far side of the Forum is the 6th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua, the oldest and most important church on the site. A treasure trove of early Christian art, it contains some exquisite 6th- to 9th-century frescoes and a hanging depiction of the Virgin Mary with child, one of the earliest icons in existence. From inside the church, you can also access the Rampa di Domiziano, an underground passageway the emperors used to enter the Forum from their Palatine palaces. 

    • Via di San Gregorio 30, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova

    An atmospheric area of towering pine trees, majestic ruins and memorable views, the Palatino (Palatine Hill) is the birthplace of Rome. This is where Romulus supposedly founded the city and where ancient Rome’s emperors lived in unabashed luxury. Archaeological excavations have unearthed evidence of Iron Age settlements on the hill, but much of what you see today dates to Roman times. In fact, much of the site is covered by the ruins of a 1st-century CE royal residence which served as the main imperial palace for 300 years. Augustus lived here all his life and successive emperors built increasingly opulent palaces – in fact, the word "palace" derives from the hill's Latin name, Palatium. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the area was pretty much abandoned until rich Renaissance families reclaimed the land, building villas in the ruins and laying out gardens and vineyards.

    The ruins can be complicated to decipher, but look out for the stadio (stadium), the Domus Flavia and Domus Augustana (the public and private parts of the palace), and the Orti Farnesiani (a Renaissance garden with swoon-inducing views over the Roman Forum).

    • Piazza del Campidoglio 1

    Housed in two stately palazzi (palaces) on Piazza del Campidoglio, the Capitoline Museums are the world’s oldest public museums. They date to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a number of bronze statues to the city, forming the nucleus of what is now one of Italy’s finest collections of classical sculpture.

    The museum’s entrance is in Palazzo dei Conservatori, where you’ll find the original core of the sculptural collection and the Pinacoteca (picture gallery), with works by many big names. Before you head upstairs, take a moment to admire the ancient masonry in the courtyard, most notably a mammoth head, hand and foot from a 12m-high statue of Constantine. Of the sculptures, the Etruscan Lupa Capitolina is the most famous piece, depicting a bronze wolf standing over her suckling wards, Romulus and Remus. Until recently, the wolf was thought to be a 5th-century BCE Etruscan work but carbon dating has shown it probably dates to the 1200s.

    Upstairs, the picture collection boasts masterpieces aplenty. These include Pietro da Cortona’s Ratto delle Sabine (Rape of the Sabine Women), and two important canvases by Caravaggio: La buona ventura (The Fortune Teller; 1595) and San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist; 1602). Palazzo Nuovo also contains some real showstoppers. Chief among them is the Galata morente, a touching sculptural depiction of a dying Gaul warrior.

    • Via dell'Arco della Ciambella 20

    La Ciambella is whipping up imaginative modern Italian cuisine just a stone's throw away from the Pantheon. Its farm-to-table cooking and handsome interior set over the ruins of the Terme di Agrippa, which are visible through transparent floor panels, create the perfect blend of ancient and modern Rome. Start with a chickpea pancake, perhaps topped with stracciatella (creamy cheese) and anchovies, before a pasta dish of guinea fowl ragù and wild mushrooms. All accompanied by excellent Italian wine.

    • Via de Ciancaleoni 31

    Blackmarket Hall is an off-beat venue on a Monti backstreet. This former monastery has a series of rooms furnished by vintage armchairs and tables, and feels rather like drinking in the ramshackle sitting room of a stately home. It's great for a drink and aperitivo, as well as to catch some of its regular jazz and acoustic performances – check the website for details.

Day 2

Indulge in the best of Rome

Lose yourself in Rome's stunning architecture, spend the day in world-class art museums filled with Bernini sculptures and Caravaggio paintings, and browse indulgent local shops. Top the evening off with some sensational cuisine from Emilia-Romagna and then admire the Trevi Fountain at night.

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  • The compact Quartiere Coppedè, centering around the magnificent Piazza Mincio, is one of Rome's most extraordinary neighborhoods. The pocket-sized Coppedè district was designed in the 1920s by little-known Florentine architect Gino Coppedèand. Hidden away northeast of Villa Borghese, it is a fairy-tale mishmash of turreted villas, towers, gargoyles, arches and graceful palm trees. At the heart of the piazza, the whimsical froggy Fontana delle Rane is a modern take on the better-known Fontana delle Tartarughe in the Jewish Ghetto.

    • Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5

    Housing what’s often dubbed the ‘queen of all private art collections’, this extraordinary gallery contains some of Rome’s greatest treasures, including several sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and paintings by Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Rubens.

    Things get off to an impressive start in the entrance hall, decorated with 4th-century floor mosaics and a 2nd-century Satiro combattente (Fighting Satyr). High on the wall is a basrelief of a horse and rider falling into the void by Pietro Bernini. The next few rooms harbor the museum’s most prized sculptures. In Sala I, you’ll find Antonio Canova’s daring depiction of Napoleon’s sister, Paolina Bonaparte Borghese, as Venere vincitrice. Sala III features Bernini’s Apollo e Dafne, which captures the exact moment Daphne’s hands start morphing into leaves, while Sala IV houses his great masterpiece, Ratto di Proserpina.

    Caravaggio dominates Sala VIII. Look for his self-portrait, Bacchino malato (Young Sick Bacchus) and the much-loved Giovane col canestro di frutta (Boy with a Basket of Fruit). Upstairs in the pinacoteca, don’t miss Raphael’s extraordinary La Deposizione di Cristo (The Deposition) and his Dama con liocorno (Lady with a Unicorn). Other highlights include Lucas Cranach the Elder’s Venere e Amore che reca il favo di miele (Venus and Cupid Carrying the Honeycomb) and Titian’s masterwork, Amor sacro e amor profano (Sacred and Profane Love).

    • Via del Babuino 77

    This multilabel boutique was the first in Rome to bring all the big-name luxury designers – Italian, French and otherwise – under one roof, and its vast emporium-styled space remains an essential stop for every serious fashionista. Labels include Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Sergio Rossi and Missoni. You’ll also find Gente's accessories store is next door, at No 78, and its men's store is on the opposite side of the road, at Via Babuino 185-192.

    • Via Frattina 120

    Nothing screams Roman style more than a pair of shoes from the city's best-known shoe designer, Fausto Santini. He is famous for his beguilingly simple, architectural shoe designs, with beautiful boots and shoes made from butter-soft leather. The colors are beautiful, and the quality is impeccable.

    • Via Vittoria 25

    Producing soaps, perfumes, creams, lotions, bathsalts, shampoos and candles made with Sicilian natural ingredients – orange blossom, lime, pomegranate, lavender, prickly pear, almond – the Ortigia range is one of Italy's most prestigious cosmetics and toiletries brands. The high quality of the products and their absolutely gorgeous packaging make for wonderful personal indulgences and sensational gifts for family and friends back home.

    • Via del Piè di Marmo 21-22

    Enjoy the delicious confections and charming ambiance of Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio. Decorated like an elegant tearoom and set up by the Torinese confectioners to the royal house of Savoy, this historic shop sells handmade chocolates and confections, many prepared from 19th-century recipes. Roman poet Trilussa was so smitten with this chocolate shop that he was moved to mention it in verse. And we agree: it's a gem.

    • Piazza della Rotonda

    A striking 2000-year-old temple, now a church, the Pantheon is the best preserved of Rome’s ancient monuments and one of the most influential buildings in the Western world. Built by Hadrian over Marcus Agrippa’s 27 BCE temple, it has stood since around 125 CE, and while its greying, pockmarked exterior might look its age, it’s still an exhilarating experience to pass through its vast bronze doors and gaze up at the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.

    Hadrian’s temple was dedicated to the classical gods – hence the name Pantheon, from the Greek pan (all) and theos (god) – but in 608 it was consecrated as a Christian church, and it’s now officially known as the Basilica di Santa Maria ad Martyres. Its monumental entrance portico is a massively imposing sight with 16 Corinthian columns, each 11.8m high and each made from a single block of Egyptian granite, supporting a triangular pediment.

    Inside, in the cavernous marble-clad interior, you’ll find the tomb of the artist Raphael alongside those of kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. The real fascination of the Pantheon, however, lies in its massive dimensions and awe-inspiring dome, the harmonious appearance of which is due to a precisely calibrated symmetry – its diameter is exactly equal to the Pantheon’s interior height of 43.4m. At its center, the 8.7m-diameter oculus plays a vital structural role by absorbing and redistributing the dome’s huge tensile forces.

    In 2023, the Pantheon introduced a €5 entry fee, and tickets can be purchased online or at an on-site ticket office.

    • Via degli Avignonesi 22

    The Latini family's elegant eatery has been serving sensational regional cuisine from Emilia-Romagna since 1931. Start with the antipasti della casa (€29 for two persons) and progress to pasta. Seasonal delights include white truffles in winter and fresh porcini mushrooms in spring, but the menu is delectable, whatever the season.

    • Piazza di Trevi

    Rome’s most famous fountain, the Fontana di Trevi is a baroque extravaganza, a foaming marble and water composition filling an entire piazza. The flamboyant ensemble, 20m wide and 26m high, was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and depicts the sea-god Oceanus in a shell-shaped chariot being led by Tritons with seahorses – one wild, one docile – representing the moods of the sea. In the niche to the left of Neptune a statue represents Abundance; to the right is Salubrity. The water comes from the Aqua Virgo, a 1st-century BCE underground aqueduct, and the name Trevi refers to the tre vie (three roads) that converge at the fountain.

    Most famously, the Trevi Fountain is where Anita Ekberg cavorted in a ballgown in Fellini’s classic 1960 film, La Dolce Vita; apparently, she wore waders under her black dress but still shivered during the winter shoot. The fountain also featured in Jean Negulesco’s 1954 film Three Coins in the Fountain, best remembered for its theme song sung by Frank Sinatra.

    The fountain gets very busy during the day, so visit later in the evening when it’s beautifully lit and you can appreciate its foaming majesty without the hordes. A rite of passage for every visitor to Rome, throwing a coin into the fountain is said to ensure that one day you’ll return to the Eternal City. But what happens to the estimated €3000 that’s thrown in each day? It’s collected daily and given to the Catholic charity Caritas, which uses it to help care for the city’s homeless population and families struggling with poverty. Coin-tossing etiquette: throw with your right hand, over your left shoulder with your back to the fountain.

Day 3

Explore Vatican City

Marvel at the Sistine Chapel's famed frescoes and Michelangelo's masterpieces before wandering past Bernini's soaring baldachin in St. Peter's Basilica. Cross the Tiber to explore Hadrian's Mausoleum and its sweeping views.

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    • Viale Vaticano

    Housed in the lavish halls and galleries of the Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano, the Vatican Museums contain one of the world’s greatest art collections. Highlights include classical statuary in the Museo Pio-Clementino, a suite of rooms decorated by Raphael, and the Michelangelo-frescoed Sistine Chapel.

    Chief among its many treasures are the Apollo Belvedere and the 1st-century Laocoön, both in the Cortile Ottagono (Octagonal Courtyard). From the Museo, the Simonetti staircase leads to several lengthy galleries, culminating in the extraordinary Galleria delle Carte Geografiche (Map Gallery). Beyond this, the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael Rooms) is a suite of four chambers painted by Raphael and his students. Star of the show is Raphael’s masterpiece, La scuola di Atene (The School of Athens). From the Raphael Rooms, you pass through several further galleries before reaching the Cappella Sistina (Sistine Chapel), home to two of the world’s most recognizable works of art – Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes (1508–12) and his Giudizio Universale (Last Judgement; 1536–41). The 800-sq-meter ceiling design, best viewed from the east wall, centers on nine panels depicting stories from the book of Genesis. 

    There is a vast selection of tours that will take you through the Vatican, depending on your desire for depth of visit and tickets that allow access to the Vatican Gardens (well worth seeing). You’re not required to pre-purchase tickets but it’s worth it to avoid the notoriously long entry queues. Demand is always high, so try to book as early as possible.

    Note that dress codes are enforced, so no uncovered shoulders, mini-skirts or short shorts. Photography is permitted (without flashes or tripods) everywhere except the Sistine Chapel.

  • In a city of outstanding churches, none can hold a candle to St Peter’s, Italy’s largest, richest and most spectacular basilica. A monument to centuries of artistic genius, it boasts spectacular works of art, including three of Italy’s most celebrated masterpieces: Michelangelo’s Pietà, his sky-scraping dome, and Bernini’s 29m-high bronze baldachin (canopy) over the papal altar.

    The original St Peter’s – which lies beneath the current basilica – was built in the 4th century on the site where St Peter was supposedly buried. The current church was consecrated in 1626 after a turbulent 120 years of construction. Its immense facade, designed by Carlo Maderno, gives on to a cavernous marble interior. At the head of the right nave, you’ll find Michelangelo’s hauntingly beautiful Pietà, the only work he ever signed. A red floor disc marks the spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

    Dominating the basilica’s center is Bernini’s baldachin, which towers over the high altar, positioned on the site of St Peter’s grave. Above, Michelangelo’s dome soars to a height of 119m. This titanic cupola is supported by four stone piers named after the saints whose statues adorn their Bernini-designed niches – Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. At the base of the Pier of St Longinus is Arnolfo di Cambio’s much-loved 13th-century bronze statue of St Peter, whose right foot has been worn down by centuries of caresses.

    The basilica is open daily from 7 am to 6.30 pm (7 pm in summer). Entry is free but you’ll have to go through security checks on the piazza outside. The line for these can be long but it usually moves fairly quickly. To limit waiting time, come at lunchtime or in the late afternoon. Guided tours are available throughout the week for €15; check the website for details. Watch what you wear: vigilant security guards enforce a strict dress code so if you want to get in, no micro shorts, miniskirts or bare shoulders.

  • Up to a third of the Vatican is covered by the perfectly manicured Vatican Gardens, which contain fortifications, grottoes, monuments, fountains, and the state’s tiny heliport and train station. Visits are by guided tour (two hours, including a visit to the Sistine Chapel) or open-air bus (45 minutes), and should be booked well in advance. 

    • Via della Meloria 43

    Gabriele Bonci's acclaimed pizzeria a taglio serves Rome's best pizza by the slice, bar none. Scissor-cut squares of soft, springy base are topped with original combinations of seasonal ingredients and served for immediate consumption. Also worth trying are the freshly fried supplì (risotto balls). Located under the mighty shade of the Vatican walls, there are only a couple of benches and stools for the hungry hordes.

    • Via Marcantonio Bragadin 51-53

    This family-run deli is a fantasyland of Italian edibles. Whole prosciutto hams hang in profusion. Cheeses, olive oil, dried pasta, balsamic vinegar, wine and truffle pâtés crowd the shelves, and can be bubbled-wrapped and vacuum-sealed for travel. Patriarch Antonio Paciotti and his three affable sons merrily advise customers in both Italian and English.

    • Lungotevere Castello 50

    With its chunky round keep, the Castel Sant'Angelo is one of the city's instantly recognizable landmarks. Built as a mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian, it was converted into a papal fortress in the 6th century. Nowadays, it houses the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant'Angelo and its grand collection of paintings, sculptures, military memorabilia and medieval firearms. Many of these weapons were used by soldiers fighting to protect the castle, which, thanks to a 13th-century secret passageway to the Vatican (Passetto di Borgo), provided sanctuary to many popes in times of danger.

    The castle's upper floors are filled with elegant Renaissance interiors, including the lavish Sala Paolina, with frescoes depicting episodes from the life of Alexander the Great. Two stories up, the terrace, immortalized by Puccini in his opera Tosca, offers unforgettable views over Rome and has a busy little cafe. Tickets are €13 but temporary exhibitions may require an additional fee.

Day 4

Explore the Via Appia Antica

Walk the long and storied Via Appia Antica, visiting opulent aristocratic villas and ancient Christian catacombs along the way. After an active day, indulge in some creative Roman cuisine at Trattoria Pennestri.

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  • Via Appia Antica was the most famous of ancient Rome’s consular roads. Named after consul Appius Claudius Caecus, who laid the first 90km section in 312 BCE, it was completed in 190 BCE and quickly became a key artery, linking Rome with the southern port of Brindisi. The ancients dubbed it the regina viarum (queen of roads) and it’s still a majestic sight: a beautiful cobbled thoroughfare flanked by stately pine trees and lush fields strewn with ruins and hidden villas.

    Despite its beauty, the road has a dark history – Spartacus and 6000 of his slave rebels were crucified here in 71 BCE, and it was here that the early Christians buried their dead in 300km of underground catacombs. You can’t visit all 300km, but three major catacombs are open for guided exploration. Above ground, there’s also plenty to take in. The Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella – a crenellated drum tower that started life as a 1st-century BCE tomb but was later used as a fort to collect tolls from passing traffic – is a signature sight.

    Nearby, you can visit the ruins of Villa di Massenzio, built by the emperor Maxentius in the 4th century. Further south, you’ll find two more villas: the Capo di Bove and, 3km beyond that, Villa dei Quintili, an aristocratic villa with an opulence that led an emperor to murder.

    • main entrance: Via Appia Antica 251, east entrance: Via Appia Nuova 1092

    Sprawling across wide-open meadows, this 2nd-century villa is one of Rome's least-visited major sights. Once the lavish home of two consuls, the Quintili brothers, its luxurious excess was ultimately their downfall. The emperor Commodus had them both killed and seized the villa for himself. Under the emperor's control, he expanded the complex, and the remaining ruins retained their opulence. Don't miss visiting the bath complex, which has a pool, caldarium (hot bath), and frigidarium (cold bath). Stop by the small museum, which offers useful context and insight into the villa's history.

    • Via Appia Antica 110-126

    These are the largest and busiest of Rome’s catacombs. Founded at the end of the 2nd century and named after Pope Calixtus I, they became the official cemetery of the newly established Roman Church. In the 20km of tunnels explored to date, archaeologists have found the tombs of 16 popes, dozens of martyrs and thousands upon thousands of Christians.

    Tours (in English and many other languages) last about 45 minutes and give a good idea of the seemingly endless corridors stretching underground. The patron saint of music, St Cecilia, was also buried here, though her body was later removed to Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. When her body was exhumed in 1599, more than a thousand years after her death, it was apparently perfectly preserved, as depicted in Stefano Maderno’s softly contoured sculpture, a replica of which is here. On tours, the guides offer many good details of early Christian life. 

    • Via Appia Antica 136

    Extending beneath the Basilica di San Sebastiano, the Catacombe di San Sebastiano is a warren of tunnels that lie beneath the church and beyond. These underground burial chambers were the first to be called catacombs ⁠— the name deriving from the Greek kata (near) and kymbas (cavity) ⁠— because they were located near a cave. The catacombs extend for more than 12km and once harbored more than 65,000 tombs.

    The 1st level is now almost completely destroyed, but frescoes, stucco work and epigraphs can be seen on the 2nd level. There are also three perfectly preserved mausoleums and a plastered wall with hundreds of invocations to St Peter and St Paul, engraved by worshippers in the 3rd and 4th centuries. During the persecution of Christians by the emperor Vespasian from AD 258, some believe that the catacombs were used as a safe haven for the remains of Peter and Paul. There's even a section of pagan Roman tombs.

    Above the catacombs, the basilica, a much-altered 4th-century church, preserves one of the arrows allegedly used to kill St Sebastian and the column to which he was tied. Tours (€12) are offered in several languages and last about 45 minutes, with moderate stair climbing.

    • Via Giovanni da Empoli 5

    Headed by a Danish-Italian chef, Tommaso Pennestri, with wines curated by co-founder Valeria Payero, this mellow trattoria cooks staunch Roman classics (think carbonara and tripe) with finesse, as well as bright, bold comfort food, such as gnocchi tumbled with prawns and stracciatella cheese or suckling pig glazed in juniper with apple chutney.

Day 5

Wander through Trastevere

Lose yourself in the gorgeous side streets of Trastevere, popping into basilicas and sampling some of Rome's best gelato. Explore a stunning Renaissance villa, a historic art gallery and end your day at a family-run trattoria.

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    • Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

    Nestled in a quiet corner of Trastevere's focal square, this is said to be the oldest church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In its original form, it dates from the early 3rd century, but a major 12th-century makeover saw the addition of a Romanesque bell tower and a glittering facade. The portico came later, added by Carlo Fontana in 1702. Inside, the 12th-century mosaics are the headline feature. Look out for the six 13th-century mosaics by Pietro Cavallini illustrating the life of the Virgin (c 1291) and the painting known as the Madonna della Clemenza. While its author remains unknown, scholars believe the panel could have been produced between the 6th and the 8th century, which would make it one of the world’s oldest surviving Marian icons.

    According to legend, the church stands on the spot where a fountain of oil miraculously sprang from the ground in 32 BCE. It incorporates 24 ancient Roman columns, some plundered from the Terme di Caracalla, and boasts a 17th-century wooden ceiling. The basilica is open every day from 7:30 am to 8:30 pm. Access is free, but it can get busy, so it’s best to visit early in the morning to avoid crowds.

  • This secluded basilica, fronted by a leafy courtyard and 18th-century facade, is the last resting place of Cecilia, the patron saint of music. The saint, who was supposedly martyred in a house buried beneath the current church, is represented by a sculpture under the main altar. The work of Stefano Maderno, this delicate marble statue is said to show how her miraculously preserved body looked when it was discovered in 1599 in the Catacombe di San Callisto. The basilica’s other great masterpiece is Pietro Cavallini’s exquisite 13th-century fresco in the nuns’ choir, showing a section of the Last Judgement.

    Admission to the basilica is free but to visit the frescoes and underground excavations, there’s a €2.50 entrance charge.

  • This vintage biscottificio (biscuit factory) delights with its ceramic-tiled interior, fly-net door curtain and a set of old-fashioned scales on the counter to weigh biscuits. Run for several decades by the ever-dedicated Stefania, there’s no better spot for homemade biscuits, bite-sized meringues and fruit tarts large and small. The enormous yellow, 1960s oven filling half her shop is an astonishing 16m long – biscuits are slowly baked as they pass from one end to the other on a conveyor belt. She sells around 50 different types in all, including her famous brutti ma buoni (ugly but good).

    • Via della Lungaretta 96

    Fior di Luna (Italian for 'moon blossom') is a contender for some of the best handmade gelato and sorbet in the city. The choice is limited but the taste is sensational: their gelato is produced in small batches using natural, seasonal ingredients. Flavors include seasonally driven classics as well as "gastronomic" inventions such as parmesan and apricot.

    • Via della Lungara 230, Trastevere

    Located in the heart of Trastevere, Villa Farnesina has long been known as one of Rome’s Renaissance masterpieces. The interior of this gorgeous 16th-century villa is fantastically frescoed from top to bottom. Several paintings in the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche and the Loggia of Galatea, both on the ground floor, are attributed to Raphael.

    Tuscan banker Agostino Chighi commissioned the palace’s construction to architect Baldassarre Peruzzi in 1505. The project would take 15 years to complete and over time the well-connected banker financed various artists to adorn his residence with exceptional artwork that could be admired by princes, politicians, and intellectuals that were often invited for lunch at the property. The palace was purchased by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese the Younger in 1590 and renamed Villa Farnesina to distinguish it from the family’s other property, Palazzo Farnese.

    • Via della Lungara 10

    Once home to Queen Christina of Sweden, whose bedroom reputedly witnessed a steady stream of male and female lovers, the palazzo takes its name from the Florentine Corsini family who took it over when Lorenzo Corsini became Pope Clement XII in 1730. Nowadays, it’s one of two seats of the Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica (the other is Palazzo Barberini).

    Highlights of its stellar art collection include Caravaggio’s San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist), Guido Reni’s Salome con la testa di San Giovanni Battista (Salome with the Head of John the Baptist), and Fra’ Angelico’s Corsini Triptych, plus works by Rubens, Poussin and Van Dyck. Note that you’ll need to book online at barberinicorsini.org to visit at the weekend.

    • Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese 63

    This family-run neighbourhood trattoria bustles every minute it's open. The setting is simplicity itself, and the Roman classics that dominate the menu are given stellar treatment (the pastas, eggplant parmigiana and roast suckling pig are all notable). Staff are cheery and helpful.

Day 6

Galleries and gelato in Rome

Lose yourself in Rome's grand galleries and museums, with stops for treats like gelato and cocktails in the Eternal City's most delightful spots. End your day admiring (and climbing) the famous Spanish Steps.

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    • Viale delle Belle Arti 131

    Housed in a vast belle époque palace, this modern-art gallery – known locally as GNAM after its full title, La Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Roma – is an unsung gem. Its superlative collection runs the gamut from neoclassical sculpture to abstract expressionism, with works by many of the most important exponents of 19th- and 20th-century art. There are canvases by the macchiaioli (Italian impressionists) and futurists Boccioni and Balla, as well as sculptures by Canova and major works by Modigliani, de Chirico and Guttuso. International artists represented include Van Gogh, Cézanne, Monet, Klimt, Kandinsky, Mondrian and Man Ray.

    • Via Poletti 6

    There's a reason Neve di Latte is one of Rome’s best gelaterias: it uses biodynamic milk, organic eggs, seasonal fruit, and high-quality nuts. Located in an innocuous-looking place near the MAXXI museum, it is famous for its chocolate and pistachio flavors.

  • This wonderful and often overlooked museum is considered Italy's finest collection of Etruscan treasures and resides in Pope Julius III's 16th-century palace in Villa Borghese. Housing what’s often referred to as the ‘queen of all private art collections,’ this extraordinary gallery contains some of Rome’s greatest art treasures. These include a series of sensational sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and important paintings by Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Rubens.

    But the museum’s most famous piece is the 6th-century BC Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcophagus of the Betrothed). This astonishing work, originally unearthed in a tomb in Cerveteri, depicts a husband and wife reclining on a stone banqueting couch. Although called a sarcophagus, it was actually designed as an elaborate urn for the couple’s ashes.

    • Via del Babuino 9

    Treat yourself to a classic cocktail at Stravinskij Bar, part of the historic Hotel de Russie. There are sofas inside, but the sunny courtyard is the fashionable choice, with sun-shaded tables overlooked by terraced gardens. In the best dolce vita style, it’s perfect for a pricey cocktail or beer accompanied by appropriately posh snacks. Dress up and make a reservation at weekends.

    • Via dell'Oca 39

    Opened by designer Cristina Bomba over four decades ago, this gorgeous boutique is now operated by her fashion-designing children Caterina (womenswear) and Michele (menswear). Using the highest-quality fabrics, they are known for their sharply tailored pieces cut into classic styles. You can peek through the window for a look at their next-door atelier. Bomba’s timeless woollens are produced at a factory just outside the city. Pricey but oh so worth it.

  • Forming a decorous backdrop to Piazza di Spagna, this statement sweep of stairs is one of Rome’s major icons and an ever-popular meeting point. Though officially named the Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti, the staircase is known to the English-speaking world as the Spanish Steps.

    Piazza di Spagna takes its name from the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, although the staircase, designed by the Italian Francesco de Sanctis, was actually built in 1725 with money bequeathed by a French diplomat. Once built, the scalinata quickly became a magnet for foreign visitors, particularly English travelers on the Grand Tour, leading locals to dub the area the ‘ghetto degli inglesi’ (the English ghetto).

    On the piazza at the foot of the 135 steps, the fountain of a sinking boat, the Barcaccia (1627), is believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Up above, the staircase’s summit is crowned by the Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti, a 16th-century church notable for its sweeping city views and impressive frescoes by Daniele da Volterra. To the southeast of Piazza di Spagna, the adjacent Piazza Mignanelli is dominated by the Colonna dell’Immacolata, built in 1857 to celebrate Pope Pius IX’s declaration of the Immaculate Conception.

Day 7

Art and architecture in Rome

Wander through one of Rome's best — and underappreciated — museums before visiting an iconic basilica. Try some authentic Roman pizza before a bit of shopping, exploring a baroque palace and sipping drinks on a beloved patio.

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  • One of Rome’s finest museums, this often-empty branch of the Museo Nazionale Romano is packed with spectacular classical art. Particularly gripping is a series of frescoes and mosaics on the 2nd floor that provides a scintillating evocation of what the interiors of grand Roman villas would have looked like.

    The 2nd-floor showstopper is a room dedicated to frescoes from Villa di Livia (dating from 30 BCE to 20 BCE), one of the homes of Augustus’ wife Livia Drusilla. These depict a paradisiacal garden full of roses, pomegranates, irises and camomile under a deep-blue, bird-filled sky. They once decorated a summer triclinium – a large living and dining area built half underground to provide shelter from the heat. Also on the 2nd floor are intricate floor mosaics and richly colored frescoes from an aristocratic residence known as Villa Farnesina. A multimedia presentation gives an excellent idea of how the villa, rediscovered in Trastevere in 1879, would originally have looked.

    The ground and 1st floors are devoted to sculpture. On the 1st floor, don’t miss a mid-3rd-century BCE marble statue known as the Anzio Maiden, which depicts a young girl participating in a Dionysian ritual. On the ground floor, highlights include two 2nd-to-1st-century BCE Greek bronzes (The Boxer and The Prince) and the 4th-century BCE marble Dying Niobid statue.

    • Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore

    One of Rome's four patriarchal basilicas, this 5th-century church stands on Esquiline Hill's summit, on the spot where snow is said to have miraculously fallen in the summer of 358 CE. Every year on August 5, the event is recreated during a light show in Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore. Much altered over the centuries, the basilica is an architectural hybrid with a 14th-century Romanesque campanile, Renaissance coffered ceiling, 18th-century baroque facade, largely baroque interior and a series of glorious 5th-century mosaics.

    The exterior fronting Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore is decorated with glimmering 13th-century mosaics that are screened by Ferdinand Fuga's baroque loggia (1741). Rising behind, the campanile – Rome's tallest – tops out at 75m (246ft).

    The vast interior retains its original structure despite the basilica's many overhauls. Particularly spectacular are the 5th-century mosaics in the triumphal arch and nave, depicting Old Testament scenes. The central image in the apse, signed by Jacopo Torriti, dates from the 13th century and represents the coronation of the Virgin Mary. Beneath your feet, the nave floor is a fine example of 12th-century Cosmati paving.

    The 18th-century baldachin over the high altar is heavy with gilt cherubs; the altar itself is a porphyry sarcophagus, which is said to contain the relics of St Matthew and other martyrs. A plaque embedded in the floor to the right of the altar marks the spot where Gian Lorenzo Bernini and his father Pietro are buried. Steps lead down to the confessio (a crypt in which relics are placed), where a statue of Pope Pius IX kneels before a reliquary that is claimed to contain a fragment of Jesus' manger.

    The sumptuously decorated Cappella Sistina, last on the right, was built by Domenico Fontana in the 16th century and contains the tombs of Popes Sixtus V and Pius V. Not as sumptuous but far more beautiful is the Cappella Sforza on the left, which was designed by Michelangelo.

    Through the souvenir shop on the right-hand side of the church is the Museo del Tresoro (Treasury Museum), with a glittering collection of religious artifacts. Most interesting, however, is the Loggia delle Benedizioni (upper loggia), accessible only by 30-minute guided tours (in English; book at the basilica entrance). Here, you can get a close look at the 13th-century mosaics on the facade, which were created by Filippo Rusuti.

    • Via della Madonna dei Monti 95

    Authentic pizza ⁠— super-thin and swiftly cooked in a wood-fired oven ⁠— is what keeps locals and tourists filling this traditional Roman pizzeria. But the outdoor seating on a cobbled cul de sac, friendly service, fair prices and good fritti (fried things) all add to the compelling reasons why Romans pile in here at weekends. Consider beginning your feast with some fried supplì (risotto balls) or baccalà (salted cod).

    • Via del Boschetto 1d

    Sublimely cut and whimsically retro-esque, Tina Sondergaard's creations for women are a hit with Rome's fashion cognoscenti. The beautifully handmade creations are a unique buy; you can have adjustments made (included in the price).

    • Via delle Quattro Fontane 13

    This baroque palace, commissioned to celebrate the Barberini family’s rise to papal power, impresses before you even start on its art collection. Many high-profile architects worked on it, including rivals Bernini and Borromini: the former contributed a square staircase, the latter a helicoidal one.

    Of the masterpieces on display, don’t miss Filippo Lippi’s Annunciazione e due donatori (Annunciation with Two Donors) and Pietro da Cortona’s ceiling fresco Il Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza (The Triumph of Divine Providence). Other must-sees include Hans Holbein’s famous portrait of Henry VIII and Raphael’s La Fornarina (The Baker’s Girl), thought to be a portrait of his mistress. Works by Caravaggio include Narciso (Narcissus) and the mesmerisingly horrific Giuditta e Oloferne (Judith Beheading Holophernes).

    • Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68

    The iconic Necci dal 1924 in Pigneto opened as a gelateria in 1924 and later became a favorite drinking destination of film director Pier Paolo Pasolini, even featuring in his film Accattone (1961). These days it’s the perfect place to stop for a rest and refreshment, no matter what you desire. It serves a huge variety of food ⁠— including pasta, burgers, snacks and salads ⁠— as well as wine, cocktails, coffee and gelato. It caters to a buoyant hipster crowd, offering a laid-back vibe, retro interior and one of Rome's best summer terraces.

Day 8

Ancient baths and historic cemeteries

Explore an opulent private art collection before seeing the awe-inspiring ruins of an ancient baths complex. Eat at a neighborhood trattoria before visiting Rome's 'non-Catholic' cemetery.

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  • Hidden behind the grey exterior of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, this wonderful gallery displays one of Rome’s richest private art collections, with works by Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and Velázquez, as well as several Flemish masters. The opulent picture galleries are hung with floor-to-ceiling paintings, all ordered chronologically.

    In the Sala Aldobrandini, look out for Titian’s Salome – the severed head is possibly Titian's self-portrait and Salome a lover who spurned the artist – and two early Caravaggios: Riposo durante la fuga in Egitto (Rest During the Flight into Egypt) and Maddalene penitente (Penitent Magdalen). Further highlights include Alessandro Algardi's bust of Donna Olimpia, the formidable woman who supposedly called the shots during Innocent X's papacy, and the Battaglia nel porto di Napoli (Battle in the Bay of Naples), one of the few paintings in Rome by Pieter Bruegel the Elder.

    The undisputed star is Velázquez's portrait of an implacable Innocent X, who grumbled that the depiction was 'too real'. For a comparison, check out Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptural interpretation of the same subject. The excellent free audio guide, narrated by Jonathan Pamphilj, brings the gallery alive with family anecdotes and background information. Buy a ticket (€16) and book a timeslot for entry online.

    • Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52

    The remains of the emperor Caracalla’s vast baths complex are among Rome’s most awe-inspiring ruins. Inaugurated in AD 212, the original 10-hectare site, which comprised baths, gyms, libraries, shops and gardens, was used by up to 8000 people daily. To evoke what the site would have looked like in its heyday, hire a virtual reality headset (€7) from the ticket office.

    The focal point is the central bathhouse, a huge rectangular edifice bookended by two palestre (gyms). The bathouse was centred on a frigidarium (cold room), where bathers would stop after the warmer tepidarium and dome-capped caldarium (hot room). While the customers enjoyed the luxurious facilities, below ground hundreds of enslaved people sweated in a 9.5km tunnel network, tending to the complex plumbing systems. The baths remained in continuous use until AD 537, when the Visigoths cut off Rome's water supply. Excavations in the 16th and 17th centuries unearthed important sculptures, many of which found their way into the Farnese family's art collection. In summer, the ruins are used to stage spectacular music and ballet performances.

    • Via Mastro Giorgio 29

    This neighborhood trattoria is renowned for its unswerving dedication to Roman soul food. Though its decor is contemporary, the menu is unrelentingly old school, including dishes such as filled ravioli, fried baccalà (cod), involtino (beef rolls in a tomato sauce) and saltimbocca (veal escalopes with proscuitto and sage). Make sure to try their signature cacio e pepe, Rome's simple, mouthwatering classic dish made with Pecorino Romano cheese and freshly ground pepper mixed with al dente spaghetti or tonnarelli. Vegetable sides include seasonal delights such as artichokes, asparagus and puntarelle (a type of chicory). There's also a far-better-than-average wine list. Booking well in advance is recommended, but you may have success in scoring a walk-in table.

  • Overlooked by an ancient pyramid, Rome's serene Protestant cemetery is a verdant oasis of peace in Testaccio. This cemetery of artists and poets is a must-see amid the chaotic Roman traffic, with cats from the I Gatti della Piramide sanctuary roaming freely to greet visitors.

    Rome’s Cimitero Acattolico per gli Stranieri, or 'non-Catholic' cemetery, has a palpable air of Grand Tour romance and tragedy. This beautiful site is where romantic poets Keats and Shelley are buried, having died in Italy respectively of consumption and drowning, as well as the poet Johann Goethe and Italian political thinker Antonio Gramsci. Among the gravestones and cypress trees, look out for the Angelo del Dolore (Angel of Grief), a much-replicated 1894 sculpture that US artist William Wetmore Story created for his wife's grave.

Day 9

Sacred sites and local delights

Discover Rome's ancient mysteries and Renaissance splendors in magnificent basilicas with relics, mosaics, and Caravaggio masterpieces. Enjoy the sweet life in lively squares, artisanal shops and wine bars.

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    • Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 4

    This mighty church, the oldest of the city’s four papal basilicas, is Rome’s official cathedral and the pope’s seat as the Bishop of Rome. Consecrated in 324, it’s revered as the mater et caput (mother and head) of all Catholic churches and it was the pope’s main place of worship for almost 1000 years.

    Over the centuries, it has been revamped several times, most notably by Francesco Borromini in the 17th century, and by Alessandro Galilei, who added the immense white facade in 1735. The echoing, marble-clad interior owes much of its present look to Borromini, who refurbished it for the 1650 Jubilee.

    It’s a breathtaking sight, with a golden gilt ceiling, a 15th-century mosaic floor, and a wide central nave lined with muscular 4.6m-high sculptures of the apostles. At the head of the nave, the Gothic baldachin over the papal altar is said to contain the relics of the heads of saints Peter and Paul. In front of it, at the base of the altar, the tomb of Pope Martin V lies in the confessio, along with a wooden statue of St John the Baptist.

    Behind the altar, the massive apse is decorated with sparkling mosaics. Parts of these date from the 4th century, but most were added in the 1800s. Outside the church, the 13th-century cloister is a lovely, peaceful place with graceful twisted columns set around a central garden.

    • Piazza di San Clemente

    Nowhere better illustrates the various stages of Rome's turbulent past than this fascinating multilayered church. The ground-level 12th-century basilica sits atop a 4th-century church, which, in turn, stands over a 2nd-century pagan temple and a 1st-century Roman house. Beneath everything are foundations dating from the Roman Republic.

    The street-level basilica superiore features a marvelous 12th-century apse mosaic depicting the Trionfo della Croce (Triumph of the Cross) and some wonderful 15th-century frescoes by Masolino in the Cappella di Santa Caterina showing a crucifixion scene and episodes from the life of St Catherine.

    Steps lead down to the 4th-century basilica inferiore, mostly destroyed by Norman invaders in 1084, but with some faded 11th-century frescoes illustrating the life of St Clement, a 1st-century bishop who became the fourth pope in AD 88. Follow the steps down another level and you'll come to a 1st-century Roman house and a dark 2nd-century temple to Mithras, with an altar showing the god slaying a bull. Beneath it all, you can hear the eerie sound of a subterranean river flowing through a Republic-era drain.

    • Via del Monte della Farina 28-29

    Offering a contemporary vibe and excellent food, Emma is an all-round winner. Sit on the front terrace or in the airy interior to enjoy excellent antipasti, thin-crust pizzas and classic Roman pasta dishes. The quality of ingredients here is top-notch – think buffalo mozzarella from Paestum, organic tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius and Cantabrian anchovies.

    • Via dei Giubbonari 21

    The name Roscioli has long been a byword for foodie excellence in Rome, and this deli restaurant is one of a clutch of venues the family operates near the Campo de' Fiori. The produce here is top-notch, and the wine list is marvelous, but due to its popularity, the surroundings can be cramped and noisy. In the case, you’ll find a spectacular smorgasbord of prize products ranging from cured hams and cheeses to conserves, dried pastas, olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars and wines. Alongside the Italian fare, you'll also see French cheeses, Iberian ham and Scottish salmon.

    If you prefer a sit-down meal, the deli's excellent in-house restaurant is worth trying, but it can be a bit of a rushed experience. The bar is great for solo diners, although couples and larger groups will be happiest sitting in the main hall.

  • With its trio of flamboyant fountains, baroque palazzi, and a colorful cast of street artists, hawkers, and tourists, Piazza Navona is central Rome's elegant and active showcase square. The horseshoe-shaped piazza, built over the 1st century Stadio di Domiziano, hosted the city’s main market for nearly 300 years (and still plays host to an annual Christmas market).

    The piazza’s grand centerpiece is Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Four Rivers Fountain), a flamboyant masterpiece featuring an Egyptian obelisk and muscular human personifications of the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate rivers. But the Four Rivers are not the only fountains bubbling on the square, the Fontana del Moro, designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1576, and the 19th-century Fontana del Nettuno, which depicts Neptune fighting with a sea monster, surrounded by sea nymphs.

    While the fountains are the anchors of the piazza, there are a host of monuments, museums, and churches as well, many containing masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Bernini, and Raphael. Do not miss the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone and the elegant Palazzo Pamphilj with its impressive frescoes (pre-book this tour).

    Just when you think you’re done seeing everything on the piazza, head to the Via di Tor Sanguigna to access the subterranean remains of the Stadio di Domiziano. The former 30,000-seat stadium used to host athletic meets until its crumbling remains were paved over and replaced in the 15th century by the market. After your time underground, venture for a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants and cafes that dot the edges of the piazza, along with several gelaterie and street food joints. You are never at a loss for choices around here, but there are plenty of overpriced tourist traps as well. For a reliable lunch choice, head to the ground floor of Palazzo Braschi which houses the charming Vivi Bistrot, or walk south to the atmospheric Ghetto for traditional Roman-Jewish cuisine.

    • Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi 5

    This beautiful church in central Rome boasts a trio of Caravaggio paintings. In 1597, Caravaggio painted three canvases for the Contarelli chapel in San Luigi dei Francesi: The Vocation of St Matthew, The Martyrdom of St Matthew and St Matthew and the Angel.

    These three canvases, housed in the Cappella Contarelli, are among the earliest of Caravaggio's religious works, painted between 1600 and 1602, but they are inescapably his, featuring a down-to-earth realism and the stunning use of chiaroscuro (the bold contrast of light and dark).

    Caravaggio’s refusal to adhere to the artistic conventions of the day and glorify his religious subjects often landed him in hot water, and his first version of San Matteo e l’angelo, which depicted St Matthew as a bald, bare-legged peasant, was originally rejected by his outraged patron, Cardinal Matteo Contarelli.

    Frescoes by Domenichino are generally outshone by the three Caravaggio, but before you leave the church, take a moment to enjoy Domenichino’s faded 17th-century frescoes of St Cecilia in the second chapel on the right. St Cecilia is also depicted in the altarpiece by Guido Reni, a copy of a work by Raphael. The Chiesa is a working church, so it is occasionally closed for religious functions.

    • Via della Stelletta 24

    Established in Rome in 1959 by Marcello and Rita Del Giudice and now operated by their children and grandchildren, this business produces leather bags, briefcases, wallets, belts and backpacks in its Roman workshop and sells them in this elegant boutique. Remarkably well-priced considering their quality, these artisanal items make for perfect souvenirs. Purchase off the shelf or have something custom-made.

    • Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14

    With nearly 40 years of history behind it, Il Goccetto is loved by locals, who are often found sipping wine on the street under the Vino Olio sign. Its cold plates make the perfect aperitivo. This authentic, old-school vino e olio (wine and oil) shop has everything you could want in a wine bar: a woody, bottle-lined interior, a cheerful crowd, tasty food (cheese and cured-meat platters) and a serious 800-strong wine list with plenty of choices by the glass.

Day 10

Ancient art and more modern music

Discover early Christian art and architecture at the Basilica di Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura, gaze at 4th-century mosaics inside Santa Costanza's domed mausoleum, then explore Renzo Piano's iconic Auditorium Parco della Musica complex. Enjoy Michelin-starred international fusion cuisine at Metamorfosi restaurant.

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    • entrances at Via Nomentana 349 & Via di Sant'Agnese 3

    Although a bit of a hike, it’s well worth searching out this intriguing medieval church complex. Set over the catacombs where St Agnes was buried, it comprises the Basilica di Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura, home to a stunning Byzantine mosaic of the saint, and the Mausoleo di Santa Costanza, a circular 4th-century mausoleum decorated by some of Christendom's oldest mosaics.

    The original basilica, remains of which can be seen in a field adjacent to the current complex, was built in the 4th century for Costanza, daughter of the emperor Costantino. It was subsequently abandoned in the 7th century and replaced by the current basilica, which has itself been much modified over the centuries. Its star attraction, and one of the few original features, is its golden apse mosaic. This is one of the best examples of Byzantine art in Rome and has survived intact. It shows St Agnes, flanked by popes Honorius and Symmachus, standing over the signs of her martyrdom – a sword and a flame. According to tradition, the 13-year-old Agnes was sentenced to be burnt at the stake, but when the flames failed to kill her she was beheaded on Piazza Navona and buried beneath this church.

    Up from the main basilica is the Mausoleo di Santa Costanza. This squat circular building has a dome supported by 12 pairs of granite columns and a vaulted ambulatory decorated with beautiful 4th-century mosaics. Bring a €0.50 piece to turn on its lights.

    • Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30

    Hub of Rome’s cultural scene, and home to the world-class Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, the auditorium was designed by starchitect Renzo Piano and inaugurated in 2002. It’s an audacious work of architecture consisting of three silver-grey pod-like concert halls set around a 3000-seat amphitheater. These provide a stage for everything from classical music and jazz to lectures and film screenings. To learn more about the complex, which also has two small museums – one displaying artifacts found during construction, and one exhibiting musical instruments – there are English-language tours on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

    • Via Giovanni Antonelli 30

    In the heart of Parioli, this Michelin-star restaurant is home to one of Rome's best dining experiences, featuring international fusion cuisine, and a space marries clean-cut lines with a warm, earthy ambiance. Chef Roy Caceres' cooking is eclectic, often featuring playful updates of traditional Roman dishes, such as his signature Uovo 65° carbonara antipasto, a deconstructed version of the classic dish.

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