Sprawling Smolyan is the southern Rodopi Mountains’ administrative centre, and a convenient base for hikers. Steep and forested mountains rise abruptly on its southern flank, lending a lovely backdrop to a town that’s otherwise time-worn and gritty.The town is an alternative place to stay if you're skiing Pamporovo or Chepelare, though it's certainly not the most beautiful. It’s the transport hub for villages such...
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