Volyn's chief settlement, historically fascinating Lutsk is a rare thing in Ukraine – a place that takes tourism seriously. It provides visitors with the genuine Ukrainian experience and gives them a free map to help them on their way.
Like many western Ukrainian towns, Lutsk has a split personality. The modern town is a relatively successful example of Soviet architecture, with broad boulevards and monumental squares creating a feeling of freedom and space. But the real jewel in Lutsk's crown is its historic conservation area and castle. This small, slowly refurbishing enclave of cobbled streets is lined with architecture from centuries past, harking back to Lutsk's Lithuanian, Polish and Russian history.