Welcome to Puerto de la Estaca & Las Playas
Past the port, the highway curves around the coast towards Las Playas, 10km further on, slicing through a no-man’s-land of rocky shores and rockier hillsides. You’ll pass the little town of Timijiraque, where there is a small black pebble beach (watch the undertow here) and the unassuming Casa Guayana, fronted by a couple of plastic chairs and with no visible sign, but where the food is so good that locals make a special effort to drive out here for lunch. Tasty local fish is served in a cosy dining room with a handful of tables overlooking the ocean. The paella literally tastes of rock pools and the sea. Find it on the main road on the left-hand side, around 800m beyond the tunnel coming from Puerto de la Estaca. Look offshore to see the famed Roque de la Bonanza, a rock formation that soars 200m out of the water and has become a symbol of the island. Las Playas itself is a long stretch of black pebble beach with mirror-smooth seas. It is often quite windy, though.