Overlooked by foreboding hills and surrounded by vineyards, Laujar de Andarax is the ‘capital’ of the Almería Alpujarras. It was here that Boabdil, the last emir of Granada, settled briefly after losing Granada, and where Aben Humeya, the leader of the doomed 1568–70 morisco (Christians converted from Islam) uprising, had his main base. These days, Laujar is a laid-back wine town with a handsome town hall and a formidable 17th-century church, the towering Iglesia de la Encarnación.
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