Appearances can be deceptive: at first glance, you’d never guess that relaxed Gniezno (gnyez-no) played a huge part in the founding of Poland. Its Old Town, attractively renovated in 2000 for the millennial anniversary of the establishment of the city’s historic bishopric, is a charming collection of winding streets and colourful, slope-roofed buildings centred on a pleasant cobblestone square and the city’s famous...
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