Squeezed between the dusty hills and the deep blue sea, gritty Port Moresby is not most travellers' idea of an enchanting capital. A spread-out collection of neighbourhoods – from modern office buildings in Town and Waigani and a glitzy marina full of yachts, to squatter shantytowns with no electricity or running water that cling to the hillsides and scruffy marketplaces where barefoot higglers from nearby villages sell their modest wares, the city illustrates the stark divide between PNG's haves and have-nots.
Expensive, dangerous (or so many expats will tell you), not easily walkable…it's easy to see why many visitors are tempted to spend as little time here as possible. But as Moresby's charms reveal themselves – a superb museum, a beautiful green space in the corner of the city, friendly locals, a gourmet meal after weeks in the provinces – the city may well grow on you.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Port Moresby.