A pleasant approach to Coyoacán’s central plazas is through the Viveros de Coyoacán, the principal nurseries for Mexico City’s parks and gardens. The 38.9-hectare swath of greenery, 1km west of central Coyoacán, is popular with joggers and great for a stroll, but watch out for belligerent squirrels!

From metro Viveros, walk south (right, as you face the fence) along Avenida Universidad and take the first left, Avenida Progreso.