Most drivers along Rte 2 (the Tel Aviv–Haifa expressway) barely look as they zoom past Israel's only remaining Mediterranean seaside Arab village. High unemployment and crime levels have given Jisr Az Zarka a bad rep, but the establishment of local guesthouse aims to change the fortunes of this maligned former fishing town. Slowly but surely, backpackers are arriving to immerse themselves in local Arab culture and watch the sun set from the quiet beach.
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