The authentic little village of Selo is set on and between the slopes of two volcanoes, and stitched together with tobacco fields and vegetable plots. It's a picturesque spot with the tiled roofs of village houses running down the steep slopes of Gunung Merapi like a lava flow. Most visitors simply zip in after dark, to climb Gunung Merapi or Merbabu and view the epic sunrise, which is a pity because the villages here are a delight to wander around in their own right.
Guides (500,000Rp per person) can be easily arranged for the Merapi climb in Selo (some 50km west of Solo) but it's best to reserve ahead. Contact the Selo Guide Association. If the Merapi summit is off-limits, dormant Merbabu can be climbed safely at any time and offers gorgeous savannah vistas from the top.