With plenty of intact pre-WW2 architecture, Hrodna (Grodno in Russian) is arguably Belarus' prettiest city. It has a decidedly European flavour, much of it derived from its central pedestrianised street, ironically named vul Savetskaya (Soviet St). The Soviets demolished many of the city's beautiful old churches after the war. Several have been rebuilt since, and their baroque profiles now dominate the central skyline.
Hrodna is a laid-back, friendly city with a host of good bars and cafes. You can visit the city overland from Poland or Lithuania without a visa, just play by the rules and do not wander outside the fairly limited confines of Hrodna district (rayon).